10 places to party in Rio de Janeiro
Expert guide to Rio de Janeiro
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The nomadic nature of much of Rio's nightlife makes for some incredible settings for one-off parties in the hills and mansions of neighbourhoods like Cosme Velho and Santa Teresa, but also makes much of the underground scene seem somewhat impenetrable. Follow the right social media accounts (see Moo, Digitaldubs and RARA) however, and be welcomed into a world of unique and friendly parties. Underpinning that are the permanent venues strewn across Lapa, from samba bars to the unmissable, palm-lined Circo Voador, where many of the best international tours pass through, as well as local leading lights.
Centro & Lapa
Rio Scenarium
The vast, stylish Rio Scenarium is an absolute staple for those seeking out live samba in Rio. Despite the hordes of tourists, international and Brazilian alike, this is one place that has somehow managed to retain its authenticity and magic. That is due in part to the endless shelves of antiques so typical of this awe-inspiring street, with everything from musical instruments to bikes and puppets adorning every spare inch. The main room sees the stage permanently occupied by local samba talents past and present, while upstairs there is a second room where DJs spin a more international soundtrack.
Contact:00 55 21 3147 9000; rioscenarium.com.br
Price: ££
Opening times: Tues-Fri, 7pm-2am; Sat, 8pm-3am
Getting in: Reservations recommended
Lapa 40 Graus
Named in homage to the controversial 1955 film Rio, 40 Graus, the Lapa version looks to raise the mercury on the local nightlife with its enticing combination of multi-level entertainment for all tastes. Start things gently with a few frames of pool on the ground floor before heading upstairs to the balcony-lined stage and dancefloor, where an array of acts gets things jumping with live samba, funk and electronic DJs and even a little country music, Brazil style, until dawn. It’s a mostly young and up-for-it crowd, but anything goes, particularly on traditional gafieira nights.
Contact: 00 55 21 3970 1338; lapa40graus.com.br
Price: ££
Opening times: Wed-Sat, 6pm-5am
Trapiche Gamboa
Set in a beautiful, century-old mansion, Trapiche Gamboa flew the flag for the city’s culture in this once dilapidated area long before Rio’s pre-Olympic makeover brought it a much-needed facelift. There is truly nowhere in the city quite like this rustic hall in which to lose yourself to the sounds of gifted musicians playing the serene strains of choro and samba to an appreciative, fleet-footed crowd. Check out the long-running African Roots-inspired Thursday nights, best enjoyed with one of the best caipirinhas in town and a portion of the suitably thirst-inducing shrimp pasteis snacks.
Contact:00 55 21 2516 0868; trapichegamboa.com
Price: ££
Opening times: Mon-Thur, 6.30pm-2am; Fri, 7.30pm-3am; Sat, 8.30pm-3am
Getting in: Reservations recommended
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Circo Voador
The 'Flying Circus' is the best place to see international underground bands in Rio and is surely one of the greatest live music venues anywhere in the world. The palm tree-lined courtyard and a sunken, tent-covered pit help provide the atmosphere, along with 800 pogoing fanatics getting loose to anything from LCD Soundsystem to Jorge Ben Jor. You are as likely to find local 1980s cheese-fest specialists Ploc as 50-strong samba band and carnival favourites Monobloco. Any music-lover’s visit to Rio should be preceded with a look at the schedule on the official site.
Contact: 00 55 21 2533 0354; circovoador.com.br
Opening times: Fri-Sat, 10pm-4am
Price: £££
Getting in: Buy tickets in advance
Carioca da Gema
The name literally translates as ‘Rio to the yolk’, or in other words, born, bred, raised and fed on a diet of undiluted Rio and everything that entails. In this case, it's an innate love for the rhythm of samba. Carioca da Gema survived Lapa’s gritty past and now stands out as one of the most successful music halls around, complete with non-stop live samba and dancing seven nights a week and even a well-regarded pizza restaurant upstairs. Those less keen to hit the floor can grab a table on the edge and be wowed by the moves.
Contact:00 55 21 2221 0043; barcariocadagema.com.br
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 7pm-3am; Sat-Sun, 9pm-4am
Price: ££
Getting in: Reservations recommended
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Botafogo & Humaita
Comuna
Who better than to create one of the most laid-back party spots, art spaces and inspired hangouts in the city than a bunch of graduates tired of Rio’s once-flat bar scene? The set-up has changed throughout its young life as license wranglings and angry neighbours put paid to the all-night parties. What stands today is a more professional and genuinely loveable music, bar and cultural space. The DJs and bands haven’t disappeared altogether, so check the website for some of the best underground parties in town, and an ever-changing array of cocktails and burgers are served by friendly staff.
Contact: 00 55 21 2225 0362; comuna.cc
Opening times: Tue-Sat, 6pm-2am (times can vary depending on specific events)
Price: £
Coordenadas
The much-loved itinerant Coordenadas parties have been taking Rio’s nightlife by storm for the best part of a decade. By late 2017, it was clearly time to settle down, and thus this typical Botafogo townhouse was completely renovated to provide the perfect setting for the festivities to continue. Pop and rock from Brazil and beyond dominate the line-up at the weekends, when a typically mixed but lively carioca crowd shimmies in every spare inch of space until 4am. Midweek sees live bands and a regular Tuesday karaoke session, with the students taking over roof-raising duties.
Contact: 00 55 21 3593 5003; coordenadascariocas.com.br
Opening times: Tues-Wed, 6pm-1am; Thur, 6pm-2am; Fri-Sat, 7pm-4am; Sun 7pm-1am
Price: £
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Leblon
Alto Vidigal
First opened as a hostel by adventure-loving Austrian Andreas, high up on the favela-filled hillside overlooking Leblon, Alto Vidigal slowly became the hottest open-air club in town. Drawing drinkers, music lovers and inquisitive souls on the not inconsiderable trek uphill, it has now reverted to a more laid-back bar but one that features regular pop-up food events and still the occasional all-night electronic jam. Either way, the effort to get here is always richly rewarded with one of the most jaw-dropping views of the Atlantic Ocean, making it worth a visit for anyone after a unique Rio experience.
Contact: 00 55 21 3322 3034; altovidigal.com
Opening times: Tue-Thu, 1pm-10pm; Fri-Sun, 1pm-1am
Price: £
Ipanema
Baretto Londra
In the depths of the Hotel Fasano on the Ipanema beachfront, the plush Baretto Londra is home to the Rio jet set. The people watching can therefore be excellent and, for those with deep-enough pockets, so too are the cocktails. Like the outfits on show, the drinks are mostly very expensive. The eclectic, rock-centric DJs get things going at the weekend, so an early arrival is advised. As a break from the boteco (simple bar) norm and dip into another side of Rio nightlife.
Contact:00 55 21 3202 4000; fasano.com.br
Opening times: Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am
Price: £££
Getting in: Dress code - smart
• Where to stay in Rio: hotels by neighbourhood
Gavea
Palaphita Gávea
The original Palaphita remains a quirky bar with expensive drinks, a peculiar vibe and an incredible position right on the Lagoa. Its sibling is even more unusual, occupying a tree-covered site on the opposite side of the lake, a horseshoe’s throw from the finishing line of the Jockey Club. Roughly hewn wooden furniture is set up on the grassy area beside the fence, allowing a close up view of the races by day, but it’s after dark that things really hot up, wistful bossa nova replaced by something more electronic and thumping as the crowds descend.
Contact: 00 55 21 3114 0853; palaphitakitch.com.br
Opening times: Mon, 6pm-1am; Thu, 8pm-4am; Fri-Sat 6pm-4am; Sun, 5pm-1am
Price: ££
