Rick Owens SS25 Brings "Hollywood" to Paris Fashion Week
Rick Owens returned to the Palais de Tokyo for the brand's Spring/Summer 2025 womenswear show at Paris Fashion Week, offering an ode to Hollywood, the "boulevard of vice, " once home to the lauded designer.
The return to Owens' signature venue appears to have come in reflection of last season, where a smaller quantity of guests were invited into the designer's home, potentially not as he had intended. According to this season's show notes, the designer came to "the realization that holding the previous season's shows in my house with a reduced audience ended up being an act of exclusion instead of the observance of respect in the face of our current wars that I had intended."
As a result, this season was the antithesis. Owens once again asked all of the fashion schools in Paris to send students and faculty to walk in the show, along with members of the Owenscorp team and some of his dear friends. Evolving last season's "Porterville" collection, named after "the small judgemental town I had to escape from," this season celebrated Hollywood, the place that Owens went to find his people.
Read on for Hypebae's review of Rick Owens SS25.
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WHO: Students, faculty, friends and chosen family walked the runway, including Hannah Dalton from Fecal Matter, the artist Baybjane, photographer Kristina Nagel and Trans model Allanah Starr. Elsewhere, Cardi B and Michèle Lamy sat in the audience.
WHERE: Rick Owens returned to the Palais de Tokyo, redefining the term "smoke show" forever. Amidst an already dramatic backdrop and iconic location, the torrential rain took a pause and the skies turned blue, while six figures were placed atop the building throwing out floral confetti.
SEE: In a seeming response to last season's army of white, an army of black clothing opened the show. A multitude of oversized black looks with signature Rick boots arrived in unison, followed by "deflated" versions of last season's versions, once again designed with Straytukay. Flowing capes, black robes, biker jackets, knitted gowns and denim dresses made up the SS25 collection, each offering a sculptural masterclass in technical design.
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TOUCH: Transparent jersey, flowing fabrics and gold-coated denim were all a part of this season's offering, interspersed with the heavy-duty leather that is so intrinsic to the Rick Owens repertoire.
HEAR: Wagner, Tristan Und Isolde Prelude to Act 1, Langsam Und Schmachtend. Conducted by Christian Thielemann eith The Wiener Staatsoper Orchestra and mixed by Jeff Judd
TASTE: According to Rick Owens SS25, oversized silhouettes, extreme platform boots and lots of black will always be in fashion.