The top of a skyscraper with panoramic views of Manhattan’s iconic skyline was a fitting setting for one of New York’s foremost purveyors of affluent Downtown cool, Proenza Schouler, to stage its latest show.
What appeared on the catwalk was no less cosmopolitan as its designers, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, presented a capsule wardrobe fit for modern working women from Manhattan to Mayfair.
Crisp white wool suits and animal print power dresses spoke of a woman in control of both her sense of style and her 9-to-5 agenda. Skirts featured razor pleats, boots were finished with a sharp silver heel and shirting came city slick.
The model casting added weight to the suggestion that this show was as much about the clothes as it was the woman who wears them, as a roster of alt It-girls from Brit Lara Mullen to New Yorker Binx Walton were enlisted alongside a more established breed of model including 37-year-old Saskia de Brauw.
Following a brief hiatus from the New York Fashion Week schedule, which saw Proenza Schouler return to home soil after a year on the Paris calendar last season, the label has been intent on reaffirming its foundations. As a result, common themes of this collection were also integral to the brand’s DNA, from generously-proportioned handbags designed for everyday life to the lashings of leather which adorned everything from trousers to sheath dresses.
Outerwear was also abundant and outfit-defining, from denim-panelled trenches to oversized patchwork shearling coats, while little touches of frivolity, such as the feather sleeves which trimmed skintight roll-necks, also hinted at a woman who takes the opportunity to have fun with fashion very seriously.