How to have the perfect cut-throat shave (without channelling your inner Sweeney Todd)
Two seasons ago the lumberjack beard trend was in full swing. You couldn’t turn around without having a bristling bush of facial hair being thrust upon your gaze – and it was annoying, for reasons that the shaven can't quite explain but know to be true. So rejoice, for normal service has now been resumed, and clean cheeks are back. Sorry, hipsters: it's time to reveal those weak chins you've been hiding.
Of course, one man's clean shave is another man's 5pm shadow. Which is why I've always wanted to learn how to wield a cut-throat razor: there is simply no closer shave to be had.
Now, this might conjure up images of Sweeney Todd maniacally laughing and skipping round east London, but not so. As I learned at Truefitt and Hill, the oldest barbershop in the world (they've been going since 1805), having a thorough cut-throat shave at home is more than possible, just so long as you know how.
Anyone living above a pie shop is advised to click away now...
Get the right brush
Every artist needs a brush to perfect his masterpiece. And shaving brushes made with badger hair are the best, says master barber Gino Rusu, as they are the closest to human hair and absorb water, which helps you to whip up an effective lather (more on that later).
Whenever you are finished using your shaving brush, run it in cold water to stop the hairs from splitting. Squeeze it gently, flick it to get rid of any excess moisture and then hang it to dry upside down. A good quality brush should last you 10 years.
Whip up the shaving cream
Brushes are important to help you whip up the shaving cream on your face, as they will prick up the individual hairs and make them stand upright. When we just dab shaving cream down with our hands it pushes the hairs downwards onto our skin, meaning only part of the hair will be partially shaved off and increasing the likelihood of ingrown hairs.
The best time to shave will be after a shower or a bath when the stubble will be softer. Run the brush under warm water just before you apply the cream to your face as this will soften the bristles. "Your skin will take the scent of the last product you use so don’t bother with a scented shaving cream if you are using an aftershave," says Rusu. "You’re going to wash it all off anyway."
Shaving cream comes in a pot, like the type you’d find shoe polish in. “Mix the cream on your face,” Rusu recommends, “because a good quality shaving cream will have ingredients rich in essential oils so you want to keep all the goodness on your skin.”
Add two dabs about the size of your finger-nail on each cheek and then, says Rusu, “lift up the whiskers by beating the brush gently like you would an egg in an upwards circular motion”.
Rusu recommends taking your time and not rushing this stage (about three to five minutes) as the brush will exfoliate the skin underneath.
How to hold the blade
Opon up the blade from the handle and rest your three middle fingers on the back of the blade. Place your little finger on the blade’s tang – the odd, crooked piece of metal that sticks out between the blade and the handle – and then put your thumb on the side of the blade near the middle.
Like so:
Stretch the skin out
If you want to shave the right side of your face, then take your left hand and lift it over and above your head and pull the cheekbone upwards to stretch it. You want to be stretch your skin as much as possible so it lies flat. “
Your skin is elastic so by stretching it the hair pops up and you just wipe it off and the follicle is left inside your skin,” says Russo. “Do not move your face with the blade. What this will do is put your facial muscles in action, creating small creases that may cause you to cut yourself.”
Adapt the technique for each part of your face, making sure the skin is stretched flat.
Take it in small steps...
“The cut-throat should just wipe the skin clean of hair,” says Ruso.
Take it in small steps, edging the blade downwards a millimeter at a time. When you feel a bit of resistance from the blade on a particular hair, lift the blade up and come at it from a different direction. But never shave against the grain of the hair (upwards), as this can create ingrown hairs.
To get the hairs under your nose you are going to have to pull your nostrils up like Miss Piggy. Yes, you will look ridiculous, but it’s just you and the bathroom mirror at this stage.
When shaving the neck, lift your chin as high as it can go and and pull the skin from your neck downwards.
... And take your time
Done carefully this process should take around 20 minutes. There’s a certain meditative and relaxing feeling to the process. At the end you’ll feel like a man reborn.
When finished shaving, wash your face with cold water to close the pores and remove any excess shaving cream or soap that could dry out your skin.
After that, it’s simply a matter of applying an after-shave balm (not too much, you don’t want to make the skin too greasy). You're ready to go about your day with not a single unsightly chin hair to be seen.
