There are only 17 active cases in Ibiza – so why can't Britons visit?

Three weeks ago I packed a suitcase and headed to the airport to catch a flight to Ibiza. It’s a journey I’ve made hundreds of times before and it’s usually accompanied by the faint flutter of butterflies in my stomach. This time, however, they were caused by anxiousness rather than excitement. It was my first trip to the White Isle this year and my first flight since the outbreak of Covid-19 – so, as well as sunscreen, a face mask and hand sanitiser now formed key components of my checklist.

But any nervousness soon proved unfounded. Travel through London City Airport, already a speedy process, has been further streamlined, with social distancing measures, additional cleaning and temperature checks implemented to embed confidence and improve hygiene.

Any remaining jitters about being in Ibiza dissipated as soon as I saw those immersive cerulean waters and boundless, clear blue skies. I’m well acquainted with this particular island’s beauty but to witness empty roads, quiet beaches, and silent streets – sights usually unthinkable in peak season – added a new dimension to its charms. Restaurants were bustling but not overcrowded, golden sand peaked out between loosely strewn sarongs, and the pace of life, so often rushed in summertime, had slowed to a gentle ramble. It was akin to visiting the island in October but with all the benefits of a midsummer sojourn. Not only this, but finally there seemed to be some respite for islanders, so many of whom rely entirely on tourism to make a living.

So I was saddened to discover, just a week after returning to the UK, that the Foreign Office had decided to introduce a 14-day quarantine period for travellers returning from Spain, effective overnight. Not only because of the sheer amount of UK holiday plans this would inevitably disrupt but also for the number of Ibiza businesses bound to be derailed – around 30 per cent of the island’s visitors are British, a market Ibicencos were hoping to tap into despite the closure of the clubs this summer.

“We were very sad and disappointed by the decision of the UK government,” explained Caroline Foraz, owner of four-room boutique hotel Pure House Ibiza. “People here in Ibiza are very serious about social distancing and wearing masks so we think it’s a safe destination.” Indeed, wearing masks at all times – apart from when eating and at the beach – is mandatory and heavily enforced in Ibiza, and the island has seen a relatively low number of Covid-19 illnesses. Despite increasing numbers of cases across Spain (a number skewed by increased testing and by Spanish authorities including people who test positive for antibodies among their figures), there are currently only 17 active cases across Ibiza and Formentera, a statistic that raises further questions about why the Balearic Islands continue to be included in the UK’s restrictions.

“With numbers far lower in the Balearic region than in most other areas in Europe it seems illogical to introduce the quarantine here,” said Lars Holm Hansen, owner of the Giri Residence in the northern village of San Juan. “[Owing] to the new UK regulations we immediately lost the majority of our UK guests for the remaining part of the season. Luckily for us we have guests from a wide range of nations, nevertheless, the UK is one of the most important for us, and so it’s still been a big blow.”

And it’s not just small businesses feeling the pinch. Ibiza Rocks in San Antonio would usually be packed with young, enthusiastic revellers at this time of year, but even with social distancing measures in place, visitor numbers continue to drop. “The majority of our audience are still choosing to come and stay with us, however, we are seeing around a third of our customers cancelling, which is a real shame as those here are having a fantastic time, and have largely followed the safety measure we’ve put in place,” said founder, Andy McKay, who speculates that there’s more to the UK government’s decision than just Covid-19 case numbers. “While I understand the need for quarantine, its extension to the Balearic Islands is clearly political. After all, staycations in the UK are booming, and perhaps negotiations on Brexit and Gibraltar are proving productive during this period of unfair and unjust Spanish pain.”

Indeed, while Ibiza and Formentera suffer, other European destinations are enjoying a surge. “It’s clear people still want to travel,” explained Liam McKay, director of corporate affairs at London City Airport. “The problem for the Balearics is that travellers from London City are now picking Florence or Nice instead. But it’s not too late for the government to take a transparent, risk-based and regional approach to quarantine, which would both allow travellers to make informed choices and be hugely welcomed by the Balearic tourism industry.”

Up on Ibiza’s pristine northern shores, the smell of freshly grilled fish wafted through the air and animated chatter was accompanied by the soothing crash of waves. At restaurant Atzaró Beach, days pass in the kind of busy but blissed-out fervour that’s come to characterise the island in 2020. The message from there? “This summer, Ibiza is a paradise not to be missed and we look forward to seeing more of our valued guests again once the quarantine rules are lifted.” For many, that time can’t come soon enough.