How to make the most of a ski holiday: visit a new resort each day on a tour of the French Alps

The scene is set for one of those best days. Snow has fallen overnight, a fresh layer of white weighing down the branches of trees and blurring the sharp lines of rocky outcrops, and we’re going to be first to dive into a pristine field of it.

On the lift, our group veers between chattering excitement and silent anticipation, wondering what this wrapping of white will uncover – fluffy powder all the way, or the heavy crust that’s a definite possibility, since the March weather has been so warm.

There’s no time to waste, others are behind, and fast catching up. So, following the traverse cut by our guide Julien Ottobon, we head left from the top of Sainte Foy’s Marquise lift, to skier’s right of the French resort, above an area known locally as the shoulder. Not steep – we are playing safe this soon after the lift has opened – nor long, but as we take the plunge, even Julien is surprised. The snow is soft, cold, feather light, and so good.

We swerve right, swooping down with sparkling clouds billowing around us, then aim into trees so we can end up back at the lift and do the same again, still finding fresh tracks. And again, making the most of our luck, noticing the snow solidifying slightly each time in the open areas, but staying fresh and pure for longer in the trees.

And then, just as quickly as this snowfall came, the off-piste fun is over. Clearing skies and warm sun take their toll, turning softness and light to unskiable glue, making freshly bashed pistes the main attraction.

The feeling of finding this quality of snow, even briefly, whether on piste or off, is a thrill we all hope for on a ski trip. And after finding it once, we’re addicted, always chasing that feeling, through cruddy snow, over ice and into slush. Earlier that morning, just opening the chalet curtains to a snow-covered view had injected my heart with a hit of adrenalin.

After such a good start, is day one going to be our lot? With the warm weather set to continue, Ste Foy’s pistes are one option – an option with increased mileage this coming season, since a new red run is opening from the top of the Marquise lift (it will, however, eat into that off-piste run on the shoulder, following part of the route).

The small French resort, on the road that leads to much more famous Val d’Isère and Tignes, has only four chairlifts and few restaurants and shops, but its reputation among those who love powder, trees and quiet slopes – both on piste and off – is deservedly high. On that first day, we saw British Olympian snowboarder Jenny Jones with her group, on the camp she runs here – Ste Foy may be lesser known, but those in the know, know.

Still, we have a choice of where to go, because we’re staying not at the foot of the Ste Foy pistes, but a short drive away in the village of Le Miroir. Our base, Chalet Merlo, is run by Ste Foy specialist Première Neige, has a stunning uninterrupted view over the Isère valley, and is the designated base for the operator’s multi-resort safaris. No big cats, but the chance to visit the nearby lion-kings among French ski areas.

Le Miroir itself has no pistes, though one of Ste Foy’s most famous off-piste runs, the Fogliettaz, ends in the village. The chalet is also within an easy private transfer of Les Arcs and La Rosière as well as Val d’Isère/Tignes and Ste Foy. To make the whole thing even more convenient, not to mention speedy and thrilling, the Première Neige concierge service can arrange helicopter transfers and day trips.

Climbing into a helicopter after a day’s skiing to be whisked from the foot of the slopes to within a short saunter of a chalet door is certainly on a par thrills-wise to looking out of the bedroom window and seeing fresh snow – maybe even enough to make up for not seeing it.

It takes us just five minutes to fly from the heli landing spot in Ste Foy to the helipad near Chalet Merlo, whirling over villages surrounded by views of white-clad peaks. But as the looks on the faces of my fellow passengers confirmed, along with the oohs of nervous appreciation as the pilot played with g-forces, those sure are five memorable minutes.

The next day, Julien arrives early at Merlo to discuss our next injection of excitement – heliskiing – over an early breakfast. But, to our disappointment, he defers it. Temperatures are still high, and that plus rising wind and an ominous tsunami of cloud hovering over the French/Italian border puts paid to any flight.

But the day is far from ruined, since, a 20-minute drive from Merlo, the high pistes of Val d’Isère and Tignes beckon. We aim straight for Tignes where the funicular up to the Grand Motte glacier is about to open, and get on the second train. And then, as we near the top, are excited to find that the following cable car to the giddy heights of 3,456mm has the green light too. This, if anywhere, is where we’ll find good snow on a day like today, and lift luck like this is enough to start anticipation mounting.

As we wait Julien points out and names the surrounding mountains, as far as Switzerland, like a mantra. My heartbeat slows again.

In the cable car, we glide above whiteness that glitters temptingly, but maybe deceptively. As we arrive, there’s a swell of muttering in the lift, everyone convinced the snow is in much better condition here than anywhere else this morning and making plans to make the most of it. In the communal excitement we all but run out of the car, and it’s a joy to find the snow squeaky not squelchy underfoot.

Skis on, our group heads left, on the hunt, into the off piste, only to be greeted by a hard crust. But this is wind-created crust Julien explains, thinner than when it’s been caused by sun, and it is skiable, and it is fun, if we can just follow the instructions to bounce and turn, and distribute weight evenly over both skis.

After making the most of the snow till 2.30, back above Val d’Isère we have a late lunch booked at the gourmet, piste-side Fruitière restaurant. At an outdoor table, over steak tartare and suitably summery rosé, we have ringside seats for an early session of the party-starting après-ski cabaret at next-door’s Folie Douce, before cruising back to the van in conditions that stay good for most of the day. Higher altitude means colder temperatures – at 1,850m Val d’Isère’s base village is 200m higher than Ste Foy’s, and its pistes go higher than Ste Foy’s too.

For some, an early finish means time for a yoga session back at Merlo, in the two-storey private gym area, steps from the chalet. For the rest of us, it’s a sauna, a hot tub session – outdoors overlooking the valley – and a massage in the dedicated therapy room.

On our final day, luck is in – helicopters are go. We set off to La Rosière, another 20-minute drive, then ski across to its linked neighbour, La Thuile in Italy, where heliskiing is permitted, unlike in France.

After leading us gently off-piste to the Italian border and the helipad, Julien packs our skis ready to be loaded, and we wait, crouching, with hearts pounding to the beat of the heli’s rotors as it comes in to land in a fierce flurry of flying snow.

Five minutes or so later, after a thrilling sweep over the peaks, we’re left in deafening silence before the majesty of Mont Blanc and a white apron of snow. At first it’s hard under skis but, warmed by the sun, softens as we descend into the wilderness. And when finally, after a long traverse looking for the best place to turn downhill, Julien gives the go-ahead, the snow is soft and creamy, and we cruise big wide arcs over the rolling landscape to our pick-up point, feeling the joy of skiing in the middle of nowhere, before another spine-tingling heli ride back to the border.

Back on piste, Julien produces a celebratory bottle of wine and local Beaufort cheese, and the day continues with lunch in Italy, big smiles on our faces.

There’s little to beat the feeling of being in the right place at the right time to catch the best thrills a ski week has to offer. And with the help of a guide and a prime-positioned chalet we managed it every day.

Need to know

Première Neige offers Chalet Merlo from £10,000 per week chalet board for the whole 12-person chalet, not including flights and transfers (Première Neige can arrange private transfers). An example heliski day in La Rosière/La Thuile costs €425 per person based on four people in the group, including one heli drop and pickup, guide, avalanche airbag with safety equipment and lift passes. A transfer helicopter between Chalet Merlo and Ste Foy costs €240 for up to five people.