Is this the most beautiful walk in Ireland?
I look at my cousin Tom. He’s chiseled, hardy and athletic. In short, everything I’m not. Fortunately, he’s also 131.
The statue in front of me is of a man holding a litter of puppies. It honours Tom Crean, an understated Antarctic explorer, and can be found opposite The South Pole Inn – which he owned – in Annascaul, County Kerry, on the Dingle Peninsula.
Tom Crean never garnered the fame of his peers, Shackleton and Scott, but was hugely respected by both; noted for his strength and bravery (for which he was awarded the Albert Cross), his feats have only in recent years received much attention.
My grandfather was Crean’s cousin, or so he said. Stories in this part of the world are known to have legs – just one of the many reasons I love returning to Kerry. But I won’t be abseiling a frozen waterfall or trudging through ice storms like the explorer. Dingle boasts some of the world’s most stunning scenery (and fewer dangers than the South Pole).
My hike around the Dingle Way (dingleway.com) begins with a relatively gentle ascent up a mountain from Annascaul Lake. Storm Ali has turned the usually trickling stream that runs into the lake into a gushing waterfall, and sheep trot along the mountainside as I hop gracelessly from stone to stone, trying to find firm ground on which to walk. From atop a large hill, I look down the valley at the lake below, still gorgeous in spite of the drizzling mid-afternoon rain.
The weather here is more volatile than the President’s Twitter account, but the sunshine presents itself later, down by Ventry Bay, where horse riders trot past beneath a blue sky pockmarked with fluffy clouds, the air fresh and salty as we walk alongside an unusually gentle Atlantic. Wandering off-road and onto marked hiking trails, we make our way into the mountain path, in the direction of Slea Head.
My father was from the Iveragh Peninsula to the south, and no matter how many often I take in the ocean view, with the Skellig Islands in the distance, I’m amazed. My spellbound fixation is short lived. I turn at a crashing noise behind me to discover that Michelle, my guide, has knocked down six or so stones hitherto piled atop a boulder.
“I simply can’t understand why people need to leave something of themselves in a place this beautiful,” she says.
She has a point. This is not a part of the world for selfies. To my left the Atlantic stretches out before me, glimmering beneath an unexpected autumn sun. The lush green fields are dotted with sheep and cattle, and to my right the mountain above is covered in rock, yellow gorse and purple heather. There are more challenging walks in Ireland, but the Dingle Way might be the most beautiful.
Nearing the village of Dunquin, we look out towards the Blasket Islands. Inhabited by a tiny, Irish-speaking community until it was evacuated in the early 1950s, the Great Blasket is a sight to behold. Its lush green mountain is counterbalanced by frothy, fierce waves that crash into the cliffs relentlessly – a far cry from the peace of Mount Brandon, where I finish my hike.
Named after Saint Brendan, who is believed to have sailed to North America well before Columbus made it vogue, the landscape here is equally spectacular. Around halfway up, we look down upon the coastline marvelling at the verdant fingers of land that spread out into the Atlantic, admiring the mist as it rolls off the mountain, as if it’s being blown out towards the sea.
“Now, we can climb further up if you like,” says Michelle. “Or go down and head back towards Dingle.”
I imagine my hardy relative, and am tempted to trudge on, to scale the mountain. But then I think of the town of Dingle, with its seafood restaurants, its pubs, cafes and, vitally, flat surfaces. “Let’s head down.”
Essentials
Hiking: The Dingle Way starts from £1,427 per person sharing, including six nights' B&B, six lunches, two dinners, transfers and the services of a Wilderness Ireland guide (wildernessireland.com; +353 (0) 91 457 898). 2019 departures from May to September.
Getting there: Faranfore Airport in County Kerry is served by Ryanair (ryanair.com). Dingle is approximately two hours by car from Cork Airport, also served by Ryanair.
Where to stay: Rooms at the Dingle Skellig are light, airy and comfortable (dingleskellig.com; doubles from £58 per person, including breakfast). Emlagh House country home is notable for its elegant decor and warm, personal service (emlaghhouse.com; doubles from £125 including breakfast).
Where to eat: Recommended by Michelin, The Global Village (globalvillagedingle.com) serves an eclectic array of innovative dishes made using local ingredients. Mains from £17.
More information:visitIreland.com; wildernessireland.com
