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A few seconds after midday, a cry went up from the crowd at the Desert Inn. It continued for several moments, a mixture of excitement and admiration which – as it hung in the air – seemed to mimic the very thing that had caused it. Some 65 miles to the north-west, the mushroom cloud billowed up, puffed out its chest and rolled with that boiling grey-white fervour of the radioactive explosion. Back on the balcony, the onlookers murmured once more and sipped their cocktails – suitably impressed at the rise of the USA’s Atomic Age. It seems a remarkable and unlikely image now – but this was once the scene that played out in hotels around Las Vegas. Seventy years ago, in January 1951, the first in a series of experimental nuclear programmes began on the sands of the closely guarded Nevada Test Site. Its mushroom clouds would be visible for 100 miles – and the state’s biggest city watched in awe.
“When you’re ready,” my guide shouts down to me, “I’ll climb that rock, drop off, and you can take the photo.” Simone Elmi, 53 going on 21, is in his element. About 20cm of fresh snow has fallen overnight and the sun is out. It’s a great day to be ski touring in the small Italian resort of Fai della Paganella. Unfortunately, he tells me on the skin track back up, occasions like this have been few and far between this season. “Most years, I would be guiding six out of seven days a week.” This year he’s lucky if it’s one or two. For self-employed individuals like Elmi, the Italian government’s decision to keep ski lifts shut this winter has been hard. Across the north of Italy, where seasonal income from skiing is worth as much as €12 billion a year, the economic impact has been enormous. Gianni Battaiola, head of the regional hoteliers association in Trentino, the province around Paganella, estimates the knock-on effects on his and other industries are costing the region around €10 million euros per day. It has been doubly frustrating, Battaiola says, because opening day was pushed back continuously, as case numbers stubbornly refused to fall. “It was December 5, then December 22, then January 7, then the 18th, then they said February 15. Now we will have the new government law which says you cannot open until Easter, so the season is finished”. These constant changes have cost not just time, but money. In the run up to the winter, Luca Guidagini, the head of lift ops in Val di Fiemme, and the regional President of ANEF, the association of lift companies, says Trentino’s resorts were confident enough about reopening to spend more than €5 million on generating artificial snow. “Thankfully, excellent natural snowfall meant it wasn’t more,” he says. They also invested heavily in apps to count skier numbers, measures to reduce queues, and “automatic spray canons” that could sanitize every gondola within four seconds, he says. As each potential opening day came and went, they geared up to go, reviewing and testing these new protocols, only to stand down at the last minute. “It was very frustrating for us, very frustrating for our partners, and very frustrating for our seasonal workers,” says Guidagini. “We promised to hire them, and then had to tell them ‘no’ as it was cancelled and cancelled.”
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