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'I lost my engagement ring but found a career' – Rosemary Shrager on the holiday that changed her

Rosemary Shrager - Clara Molden
Rosemary Shrager - Clara Molden

A honeymoon trip to France set novice cook Rosemary Shrager on course to becoming a chef and TV presenter

When I was 22, my husband Michael and I hit the road the morning after our wedding reception at The Berkeley, London. Sitting in his Alfa Romeo, we took the ferry across the Channel to France and began a two-week trip from north to south. It was Michael’s idea to go there because food was, and still is, a major part of my life and would ultimately be the focus of our honeymoon. Also, he knew I just loved France.

A friend had given us a copy of the Relais & Châteaux book as a wedding gift; I wasn’t familiar with the hotel association, but its properties are known for their gourmet restaurants. I was a passionate novice cook and they sounded heavenly, so on the spur of the moment we mapped out our route to include stays at some of the group’s French properties.

We wound our way down through Normandy, Périgord, Lyon, Montélimar, Nîmes and Valbonne, leaving the main roads and taking rural routes with the gorgeous rolling countryside flashing past us through the ­windows. Michael made sure we were fully immersed in the local cuisine wherever we went.

We sampled nougat in Nîmes, and bouillabaisse (a traditional French fish soup) at a harbourfront brasserie in Marseille – and we visited countless food markets. Valbonne had a spectacular example, with teeming displays of meats and cheeses and vibrant fruit and vegetables – it was like nothing I’d seen at home. It was a buzzy atmosphere and I sensed a passion for food; you could tell people enjoyed it and spent proper money on their produce.

I’ll never forget checking into an old converted monastery near Lyon. It’s not a hotel any more, but it was called La Cardinale Et Sa Residence. All the rooms were named after flowers and opened out on to glorious gardens.

Roman architecture in Nîmes - getty
Roman architecture in Nîmes - getty

That evening we had dinner in the restaurant, which had high vaulted ceilings and was where I first experienced nouvelle-style cuisine. At the time, it was just coming to prominence in France and the emphasis was on delicate and beautifully presented food. I ordered what I thought was a simple chicken dish and it was served up like a work of art! That experience fired up something inside me; food had suddenly been elevated and I saw it in a completely different way.

A few nights later, we drove on to Residence du Cap. This hotel is gone now, too, but it used to be perched on the hillside just above the famous Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, near Cannes, and had wonderful views. It was arranged round a huge courtyard, lined with Grecian-style pillars. The French Riviera was beautiful, as were the people – it was so chic and sophisticated.

Food was the main focus of the trip, though we did venture out one day to do something more touristy. We went to watch a bullfight in Nîmes, which was held in a huge amphitheatre. As we headed into the crowds, I slipped my engagement ring into my purse because I was afraid it might look a little ostentatious – but it must have fallen out because I never saw it again. I was devastated. We tried to look for it; it was a terrible thing to happen. I was so upset, and we went to the police just to see if someone had handed it in!

Our honeymoon finished up in Paris, with a night at the opulent George V. It was luxury on another level and the first hotel I’d ever stayed at that had a fridge in the room! Paris has some wonderful restaurants, but one night, unfortunately, we strolled down the Champs-Élysées and found ourselves in Fouquet’s. It was the place to be seen, but we were a bit underwhelmed. I had a craving for smoked salmon and I remember the waiter telling me proudly that it had come from Scotland. That made me laugh.

Our petit French voyage changed my life. I set off as a novice cook, without any particular style or fancy techniques, but when I returned I viewed food in a new light. I was preoccupied with presentation and I elevated my style to become more sophisticated. I took courses and immersed myself in the books of top French chefs such as Roger Vergé. I threw myself into cooking with renewed vigour. I discovered that I loved learning and I haven’t stopped learning since.

The trip ended in Paris, with dinner on the Champs-Élysées - getty
The trip ended in Paris, with dinner on the Champs-Élysées - getty

My husband sadly passed away just before the lockdown, so now this trip holds extra-special memories. More than just luxurious and romantic, this marked the beginning of my food odyssey. It was the best wedding present he could ever have given me. I’ll never forget it.

Rosemary Shrager has teamed up with singer La Voix to host a new cookery series, La Voix & Rosemary Cooking Show, every Wednesday at 6pm on Facebook – simply search for Rosemary Shrager. Follow Rosemary on Instagram @rosemary.shrager and visit rosemaryshrager.com

As told to Kirsty Nutkins