London Fashion Week's best looks, from Molly Goddard to Vivienne Westwood

Simone Rocha, Molly Goddard and Erdem - Courtesy of Simone Rocha, Molly Goddard and Erdem
Simone Rocha, Molly Goddard and Erdem - Courtesy of Simone Rocha, Molly Goddard and Erdem

Back in February, London Fashion Week went digital-only for the first time in its 35-year history due to the pandemic, but as a new normal emerges, the shows are back on with a glass half-full approach: embracing real-life catwalks and presentations as well as digital shows.

The busy schedule of live streams and physical events means there will be plenty of new ideas emerging for spring/summer 2022, from new designer names, fresh trends and inspiration to spark joy and make up for the last 18 months.

Here are the highlights from the spring/summer 2022 collections so far...

Molly Goddard

Molly Goddard is best known for her frothy, multi-layered party dresses, like the one worn by Killing Eve's Villanelle, but we saw an evolution of that look this season. Her cloudy creations were reconceived in florals and cottons, or teamed with jeans, bucket hats and knitted tanks. It was still the distinctive Molly Goddard look that we know and love, but more accessible and real-world wearable. Start saving up now.

Roksanda

roksanda spring summer 2022 - Courtesy of Roksanda
roksanda spring summer 2022 - Courtesy of Roksanda

The Serbian-born, London-based designer whose fans include Olivia Colman and Cate Blanchett is always a London Fashion Week highlight for her easy-to-wear silhouettes and sophisticated use of colour. This collection was brought to life through dance, lending the clothes an almost sculptural quality.

Simone Rocha

Many within the fashion world have tired of florals and frills, but in Simone Rocha's hands, this aesthetic continues to look fresh. There were faded, vintage-look prints, spliced ruffles and outsized pie-crust collars that fell almost to the hip. Highlights included knitwear, pearl-strapped bags and embroidered, tiered dresses.

Edeline Lee

The latest offering from this rising London Fashion Week star was made entirely using leftover fabrics from her studio. You wouldn't know it though; the sunshine-infused palette, the crease-free fabrics and the flattering midaxi silhouettes are all thoughtfully designed with real working women in mind.

Richard Malone

richard malone spring summer - Getty Images
richard malone spring summer - Getty Images

Richard Malone's show at the V&A Museum was the perfect platform to debut his collaboration with British heritage brand Mulberry. The collection, which reimagined familiar hallmarks like the Postman's Lock and Bayswater silhouette, was made from scrap leather and made for a strong contrast with his signature ruching and draping. The It buy, according to the designer, is the round weekender bag.

Erdem

erdem - Courtesy of Erdem
erdem - Courtesy of Erdem

Erdem Moralıoğlu is renowned for diving into different historical eras for his collection inspirations. This season Edith Sitwell and Ottoline Morrell were the chosen muses of his collection.

Held at the British Museum, this was a celebratory show for Moralıoğlu, his first since lockdown and the 15th anniversary of his eponymous brand. The collection spanned crisp yet feminine white shirt dresses, painterly florals and sequinned, slinky gowns.

Halpern

halpern spring/summer 2022 - Courtesy of Halpern
halpern spring/summer 2022 - Courtesy of Halpern

This season Michael Halpern enlisted help from the leading stars of the Royal Opera House’s Romeo & Juliet ballet production. The return to dancing and theatre has commenced — and there’s only one way to do it in the Halpern universe: sequined figure skating dresses, tulle tutu ball skirts, a satin Grace Jones-esque creation with a hood and feathered cocoon dresses, perfect for the return to dressing up.

Bora Aksu

bora aksu - Courtesy of Bora Aksu
bora aksu - Courtesy of Bora Aksu

Bora Aksu mused on the personal style of Dutch socialite Mathilde Willink, who was married to prominent magic realism artist, Carel Willink from 1969 to 1977. Mathilde’s way of dressing was an eccentric take on space age glamour, from madcap make-up to opulent iridescent fabrics. Aksu added his signature touches: flowers embroidered onto rose printed white tights, wide leg trousers and short shoulder capes.

Matty Bovan

matty bovan - Courtesy of Matty Bovan
matty bovan - Courtesy of Matty Bovan

From Ella Emhoff to Tom Daley, knitting and crocheting has become therapeutic hobby du jour for Gen Z. Bovan’s technicolour upcycled offering nodded to the moment, and was showcased by veteran models including Erin O'Connor and Rosemary Ferguson.

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Spring/Summer 2022 - Courtesy of Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Spring/Summer 2022 - Courtesy of Preen by Thornton Bregazzi

Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi looked to the 1980s, taking inspiration from the static rainbow test strips seen on television sets at the time when stations had finished their broadcasts. After most of us overdosed on TV during lockdown, this collection what about leaving the screen behind to peacock in a blaze of bright colours and graphic patterns.

Vivienne Westwood

vivienne westwood Spring/Summer 2022 - Courtesy of Spring/Summer 2022
vivienne westwood Spring/Summer 2022 - Courtesy of Spring/Summer 2022

Fashion is constantly looking back. For Dame Vivienne Westwood in recent years, she’s been revisiting her own archive. Last season she returned to the Rococo corsets from her 1990 Portrait collection. This season, she’s replaying her favourite parts from spring 1998’s Tied to the Mast — a shipwrecked pirate fantasy. A sustainability dossier accompanied the collection — outlining that 98% of the garments were produced from low impact and cruelty free materials.

House of Sunny

house of sunny Spring/Summer 2022 - Courtesy of House of Sunny
house of sunny Spring/Summer 2022 - Courtesy of House of Sunny

Creative director Sunny Williams is anticipating a late summer — one that we can wear right into the autumn and winter months. It’s a joyous time for the London-based brand as they celebrate their 10th anniversary. This season’s focus is on psychedelic printed off-shoulder knit dresses, scenic waterfall vests and sports-inspired pieces. The indie label is focusing sharply on its goal of remaining sustainable by using recycled, organic and FSC certified Livaeco fabrics.

Temperley

temperley Spring/Summer 2022 - Courtesy of Temperley
temperley Spring/Summer 2022 - Courtesy of Temperley

Since relocating to Somerset, Alice Temperley has been focused on relaxed, wearable designs: easy dresses and co-ords that don’t crease, soft mediterranean blue and green hues and exotic florals with a holiday feel. The designer turned to Agatha Christie, one of the West Country's most famous exports, as her starting point nodding to the authors independent spirit and the far-flung settings of her books.