Next came soft, drapey silhouettes in cool, muted tones, which looked as though they had been expertly fashioned out of bed sheets. (If your bed sheets were the finest known to mankind, you are to understand). There were towering shoes whose heels were seemingly made from bottles of nail varnish, cake candles and even broken eggs as well as denim midi skirts festooned with clouds of silk.
While the Loewe collection was inspired by Renaissance painter Pontormo there was also, to the naked eye at least, a certain homage to ‘craft fashion’; the notion of creating new, daring silhouettes through experimentation with what one already has. Exquisitely draped tops were blended with hard resin fronts, sculptural metal pieces were attached to classic black dresses, while trousers came with fun knee holes.
It’s a welcoming thought. Whereas other designers have optimism (and hedonism) in their eyes this coming season, creative director Jonathan Anderson is different; a dreamy realist if you will, understanding that in a world on the brink of economic collapse, perhaps the best thing a girl can do is look in her existing wardrobe and ‘think big’.
Craft has, of course, always been at the heart of Loewe. The 175-year-old fashion house started life as a family-run leather goods company where luxury craftsmanship was what made Loewe stand out from the crowd - as well as helped it become the leather goods brand of choice for the Spanish royal family, no less. (The brand also launched one of the most important craft prizes in the world back in 2016 with the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize). This collection then felt both deeply connected to what this brand stands for, but also for the way fashion is heading.
Delightfully there was also a nod to the last 18 months, something other designers have been loath to do, presuming it’s easy to whip everyone out of the gym leggings they’ve been wearing since 2020 and instead into mini dresses and bodysuits.
Big, soft tracksuits (which looked suspiciously like shell suits to those of us born south of 1986) made an appearance as did a Loewe take on Ugg’s with soft slouchy teddy bear boots. Even the now classic Loewe Flamenco bag was reimagined in soft, teddy bear fabric.
In many ways, Loewe is one of the most exciting fashion brands of the moment: daring but real; luxurious but fun; future-facing but an acknowledgment of what has come before. Which is exactly what this collection showed.
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