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Kitchen-garden diary: in praise of the Comice pear

Photo credit: NATALIA YANEZ-STIEL
Photo credit: NATALIA YANEZ-STIEL

From Town & Country

In his 1934 Anatomy of Dessert, Edward Bunyard gives as beautiful a tribute to the object of his desire as Shakespeare did in his sonnets: “In the long history of the pear the year of 1849 stands alone in importance. The historian will be reminded of the annexation of the Punjab… But what are such things to us? Happy those who were present when Doyenne du Comice first gave up its luscious juice to man.”

What so appealed to Bunyard? It was the Comice’s “perfect combination of flavour, aroma, and texture” – and he was not alone in admiration. The London Horticultural Journal in 1894 called it the best pear in the world. And around the same time, Hoggs Fruit Manual described its “Flesh, yellowish white, very tender, buttery and melting, very juicy, rich, sweet and delicately perfumed with a sort of cinnamon flavour.”

It is certainly amongst the very best of pears to cook with. It is quite bulbous in shape; less elegant-looking than longer-necked varieties. But it is pleasingly weighty in the palm, owing to its high content of water – full of promise of chin-dribbling juiciness.

The Doyenné du Comice originated in France, in the Loire Valley, but was soon after introduced to Britain and has therefore been growing here since the 18th century. Their fine-grained, creamy texture poaches beautifully, and the strong pear taste can stand up to aromatic flavours and spices, making this the perfect dessert pear. Try poaching in a sugar syrup flavoured with cinnamon, vanilla and citrus, or a sweetened, spiced red wine. Or you can bake, or caramelise in a pan and serve with vanilla ice cream or mascarpone. Delia employs them in a cake with almond and a streusel topping. Or if you want a grand, showy dinner-party finale, try her whole pears filled with a crunchy praline centre and enrobed with glossy chocolate, a worthy rival of Escoffier’s classic Poire Belle Hélène.

The sweetness of the Comice makes it usable in place of other fruit. Try it instead of the conventional white peach in a Bellini. And use it instead of pineapple in an upside down cake. It can be used in flapjacks or in a pie, such as this unusual recipe where it is flavoured with red wine and rosemary.

Don’t forget its savoury uses. In a salad, paired with Jersey Royals, Roquefort and walnuts, or make it into a pear sauce to serve with pork. Or eat unadulterated with a soft-ripening cheese, like Camembert or a more pungent Stilton or Gorgonzola.

Choosing your pear from the shelf or the market stand requires more careful consideration than with some other fruit. You’ll know they’re ripe if they give slightly around the stem, but ensure they’re not squashy. According to RHL Gunyon, “The tradition is to pick them on or soon after 1 November and then watch them as they come to perfection (the old legend that towards the end it may be necessary to get up at 3 am to find absolute perfection is not a great exaggeration).” Luckily, the season lasts through to March and modern refrigeration means you no longer needs lose a night’s sleep to enjoy your Comice.

Spring feels upon us. And as Gerard Manley Hopkins rhapsodised about “The glassy peartree leaves and blooms” at the new season, so he asked: “What is all this juice and all this joy?” I like to think it was the Doyenné du Comice.