The 1970s layered hair do that flatters at any age
The shaggy shoulder-length hairstyle dubbed the ‘wolf cut’ is in fact a throwback to Jane Fonda’s 1971 Klute hairdo, and yet with its fearless fringe and graduated layers that hug the perimeter of the face, this short on top, long at the bottom haircut is as soft as it is tough, making it the perfect haircut for now.
Depending on how extreme you go, the wolf cut can embody a number of genres. Commit fully and it harks back to 70s rockers Bowie and Rod Stewart (and nowadays to Miley Cyrus, and Billie Eilish).
Soften the edges and introduce volume and it takes on a French sex kitten quality, reminiscent of 60s beauty icons Bridgitte Bardot and Francoise Hardy.
Look to Wednesday actress Jenna Ortega and one can’t help but draw comparisons to Meg Ryan’s cutesie choppy do that American hairdresser Sally Hershberger gave the Harry Met Sally actress in the 90s, trumped only by hairstylist Chris McMillan’s ‘Rachel’ named after Jennifer Aniston’s character in Friends.
Scroll through social media and less sought after examples point to a raft of newsreaders from Fiona Bruce to Kay Burley and Strictly Come Dancing winner Natasha Kaplinski, who have unintentionally been sporting an interpretation of the wolf cut long before it took its name.
The point being that the face-framing style that’s now become wanted by the Y2-K generation, is actually one of the most universally flattering cuts of all time, not only for its versatility (it’s easily adapted to most hair textures) but for its ability to accentuate and disguise in all the right places. This makes it as suitable for the chiselled-cheeked Ortega as First Lady Jill Biden, 71, whose tapered and fringed shape is, though surreptitiously, an adaptation of 2023s most asked for haircut.
So, what is the wolf cut exactly, and is it right for you? Nicholas Alexander Willis from Charles Worthington Salon describes it as a creative version of the less admired mullet. “It’s inspired by the choppy texture of a mullet and follows a similar pattern and shape but has the softness and wearability of a shag cut,” he says.
Celebrity hairstylist Larry King whose salon model Mia Regan went to for hers, told us back in 2019 that the style originally created for character Bree Daniels, the call girl Jane Fonda played in Alan Pakula’s 1971 film Klute, was about to return when he noticed his clients asking for braver cuts. Despite its cool girl image, King says today’s wolf cut is an easily malleable hairstyle that suits most hair textures and ages.
“It’s the perfect style for those who have been wearing a bob for years and want to switch it up,” he says. “It’s as simple as cutting in a fringe and snipping off the corners to create a graduated length that’s either boldly disconnected or ever so slightly longer at the back, depending on the person’s face shape, hair texture and the image they want to portray,’ says King.
What to ask for
Pictures speak a thousand words so come armed with a Pinterest board of images that depict the length and amount of layers you envisage having. If you are in search of a new hairdresser, use platforms like Instagram to vet the hairdresser you choose by checking they have examples of similar styles on their feed, suggests King. “You ideally want someone who has experience of doing it on numerous face shapes,” he says.
Does face shape and age matter?
It really is suitable for most people, says King. But if you are concerned about accentuating a wide, rounded face he recommends keeping more length around the neckline to soften the jaw. He explains, “the shorter it is at the top, the more exposed your face is. The key is to adapt the layers according to your best assets - a longer sweeping fringe will soften a more mature face, for instance.”
When to avoid it
If you have either poker straight or very coily hair, this cut is best avoided, says King as the character of the cut requires a flicky finish. However, curls are not a deterrent and can be the perfect antidote to the spiky unflattering mullets of the 80s. “The beauty of the wolf cut is working with the individual’s natural texture - encouraging waves throughout the hair gives the cut both its uniqueness and wearability,” he says. If you have fine hair, however, he advises keeping the baseline (bottom) blunt with minimal layers. “For those with fine hair the heavy fringe will add the illusion of thickness, but the bottom can look wispy if it’s overly layered,” he says.
How to style it
The key is to create movement, stresses King. “Use a straightening iron like the Dyson Corrale to encourage flicks and bends.” If your hair is curly to coily, he advises using a diffuser to intensify the curls and create volume at the crown, as the modernity comes from making it your own, whether that’s by dying it a new colour or playing with your natural texture. Bung in some wax (Ouai’s Matte Pomade, £16 from lookfantastic.com is second to none) or, for longer styles, a styling cream like Larry King Hair’s A Social Life for Your Hair, £12 (cultbeauty.co.uk) to add gloss. However, if your hair is fine, a texturising spray such as Sam McKnight’s brilliant Cool Girl Barely There Texture Mist, £27 (sammcknight.com), will give it some guts and definition.
