Inside the ‘world’s best hotel’ and what our Editor in Chief thought when she checked in
For many in the industry, it didn’t come as a surprise to learn that Passalacqua in Lake Como had been named the best hotel in the world at the inaugural hotel edition of the ‘50 Best’ list. (Fittingly, the ceremony was held in one of the most anticipated openings in London of the past few years: Raffles at the Old War Office.)
First place may have gone to Italy, but six hotels in the UK ranked within the 50, including four in the capital: Claridge’s, the Connaught, NoMad and the Savoy. Elsewhere, old and new favourites Gleneagles in Perthshire and The Newt in Bruton also made the shortlist.
Back to the top spot: the younger sibling of the legendary Grand Hotel Tremezzo, run by the same passionate Italian family, was bound to be a success. But what really makes it so special? Could this tiny Como bolthole, once the home of the composer Vincenzo Bellini, really take on the titans of the hotel world to be named the best place to stay on the planet?
Red’s editor Sarah Tomczak was already won over by Passalacqua’s Instagram page and things only got better from there. Here, she describes her visit to what has since been crowned the best hotel in the world. Spoiler alert: she’s already saving up to go back…
The first thing I saw on Instagram was a little orange convertible Fiat 500 winding its way up the cobbled path to Passalacqua. Then a green and white parasol, lined with La DoubleJ florals, and a matching sunlounger facing Lake Como. Then a vintage boat, all lacquered wood and yellow striped seats, moored at the jetty. I didn’t need to see any more. I already knew I needed to visit Passalacqua.
Yet these snippets on social media (from Skye McAlpine, fashion designer JJ Martin and PR guru Liz MacCuish) couldn’t compare to the beauty of seeing the hotel in real life. It’s quite simply one of the most exquisite places I have ever stayed.
Perched on the southwest shore of Lake Como, the 18th-century villa was built by an Italian count, then became home to composer Vincenzo Bellini, who wrote two operas here until, decades later, the De Santis family snapped it up. They also own the Grand Hotel Tremezzo on the lake, so know a thing or two about delivering the best of Italian hospitality to a discerning crowd, but with Passalaqua there’s an extra intimacy and attention to detail so guests feel like they’ve stepped into a glamorous family home, rich with character and conviviality.
Past the smiling staff, dressed impeccably in uniforms by Giuliva Heritage, you’re met by a sweeping stone staircase that dominates the entrance. Turn left for the library and bar and right for the restaurant – two frescoed dining rooms with Venetian terrazzo floors and Murano glass chandeliers. Upstairs are 12 rooms and suites, another eight are in the building behind, the Palazz, and a further four cottages sit in the garden.
Our room has a gold baroque headboard, green damask-lined walls and the most decadent marbled bathroom, with a freestanding bath under the window. We arrive at the same time as a thunderstorm, so I watch the lightning from the comfort of the tub, glass of champagne in hand. Before returning to the main house for Norma Bellinis in the little cocktail bar, I slide on the monogrammed ochre towelling slippers and slather myself in Aqua Como beauty products. They truly have thought of everything.
We only have 48 hours to experience Passalacqua, so there’s no hanging around. It’s hard not to linger over breakfast – guests are invited into the hotel’s bustling kitchen to pile plates with eggs, cheeses, meats and fruit and everyone is given a cake stand with tiny espresso granitas, miniature pizza and little maritozzi – brioche buns filled with cream. We follow this with a game of tennis, a walk up to the village of Moltrasio to see the church and sample home-made gelato at Le Giuggiole, and a trip on the aforementioned hotel boat, Didi. While reclining on those Loro Piana striped seats, our affable captain points out George Clooney’s home and other fabulous residences.
By the time we are dressed for dinner in the Sala Ovale, we are exhausted, but nothing that an exquisite plate of pasta and glass of wine can’t fix.
The sun shines on our last morning,so we take advantage of the most photogenic spot, the pool. The profusion of print and colour is the vision of La DoubleJ designer JJ Martin: those green and white fringed parasols and sunloungers. In the glass pool house, bamboo chairs sit around tiled tables, surrounded by Sicilian ceramics and palms. It’s bold, playful and just kitsch enough – a jolt of serotonin to balance the grown-up grandeur. I realise my Instagram feed will soon be as saturated as everyone else’s.
If it sounds expensive, it is, but the most beautiful places usually are. That Keeley Hawes and Matthew MacFadyen are one sunlounger away from us is no surprise either (the Succession cast stayed here while filming). This is a place for the most special of occasions; significant birthdays or anniversaries; once-in-a-lifetime experiences. I say that, but we are already saving up to return. You really can’t have too much of a good thing – if you can afford it.
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