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Imelda May: 'I love the humour and dry wit of Dubliners – there are lots of eccentric characters'

Irish singer Imelda May - Geoff Pugh Photography Ltd Telegraph Media Group Ltd
Irish singer Imelda May - Geoff Pugh Photography Ltd Telegraph Media Group Ltd

Why Dublin? 

I was born in Dublin and grew up there. It’s big enough to be cosmopolitan and multicultural but also has a small-town friendly vibe. There is a fantastic range of nightlife and cultural activities, yet it’s only half an hour from the beach in Howth, or 45 minutes to the mountains where you can enjoy Glendalough or Blessington Lakes. 

I visit at least every two months to catch up with my family and go over from London for performances. 

There are lots of eccentric characters in Dublin, which I like. It has a liberating feel and is musically inspirational. I learnt all about singing and music by hanging out at the Bruxelles bar (details below) as a teenager on Monday nights. One of my new songs, The Girl I Used To Be, has lots of references to Dublin.

Glendalough - Credit: (c) Bjoern Alberts/Bjoern Alberts
Glendalough is just 45 minutes away from Dublin Credit: (c) Bjoern Alberts/Bjoern Alberts

Anything special I should pack?

Clothing for every sort of weather. It can be freezing in the summer or warm in the winter. Plus maybe Alka Seltzer if you are planning to avail yourself of the local hostelries. 

What do you miss when you’re away?

The humour and dry wit, as well as the laid-back attitude of locals. You’ll hear a taxi driver, say: “We’ll be there in two minutes, but it might be 20.” It’s a very easy-going place with an upbeat feel, and an all-seeing optimism that’s special to Dublin. 

What’s the first thing you do on arrival? 

I will usually head to see my family who are in an old part of Dublin called The Liberties. As soon as I arrive there, my shoulders drop.  

Where’s the best place to stay? 

The Westbury (00353 1 679 1122; doylecollection.com) is good, as is The Shelbourne (00353 1 663 4500; shelbournedining.ie) – though it is expensive. The Morrison (00353 1 887 2400; morrisonhotel.ie) is right by Halfpenny Bridge and centrally located.  

The Westbury
The Westbury is a fine place to stay

Where do you meet friends for a drink? 

The Bruxelles (00353 1 677 5362; bruxelles.ie) in Grafton Street, where my career began, is worth a visit. Bakers Pub (00353 1 473 6789; 48 Thomas Street) in The Liberties is a traditional, local place. 

Where is the best place for lunch?

Simon’s Place (00353 1 679 7821; George’s Street Arcade, 22 South Great George’s Street), which is set in a beautiful old Gothic building with little markets inside. It does good sandwiches and soups, and is a haunt for musicians, writers and artists. Fusco’s Cafe (00353 1 454 1189; 27 Meath Street) is good for freshly fried fish and chips.

And for dinner?

The Winding Stair (00353 1 872 7320; winding-stair.com) has a bookshop and overlooks the River Liffey. Chapter One (00353 1 873 2266; chapteronerestaurant.com) is a Michelin-starred place and also very good.

Where’s best for a first-time visitor?

Head into The Liberties to get a sense of the history of Dublin, then walk along the River Liffey, over the Halfpenny Bridge, and have a walk around Stephen’s Green. Visit Trinity College for a look at the Book of Kells. You must explore the arts, so book tickets for a performance at the Abbey Theatre (00353 1 878 7222; abbeytheatre.ie). 

There are always gigs on, and experiencing a session in a pub is a must. Go for a poet’s walk or poet’s pub crawl. Dublin is famous for nurturing Oscar Wilde, 

WB Yeats and Jack Yeats. Also take the Dart rail to Howth, a lovely fishing village where you can walk along the promenade and enjoy the sea views. 

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What should I avoid?

Tourist traps. People like to go to the Temple Bar area, but I don’t know one Dubliner who does. 

What should I bring home?

Irish soda bread or a turnover, a white loaf, from Catherine’s Bakery (00353 1 532 8466; traditionalcraftbakery.com). 

Public transport or taxi?

Taxis for the banter, which is priceless. The city is quite walkable in the centre, but there is very good public transport. 

Handbag or money belt? 

As with any city, keep your wits about you and don’t look like you’re a tourist.

Unseen Dublin: Images from the Guinness Archive

Anywhere that isn’t your kind of town? 

I haven’t yet “got” Berlin. Friends tell me how fantastic it is, but I’ve been six times and I have always ended up in terrible places. In other cities I get the vibe straight away, but Berlin’s remains elusive, so any recommendations would be very useful. 

Imelda May’s new album ‘Life Love Flesh Blood’ (Decca Records) is out now. For more information on her tour dates, see imeldamay.co.uk.     

Interview by Roz Lewis 

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