This hotel in the Dubai desert is surrounded by oryx and gazelles

In a nutshell: luxurious, tented Bedouin camps in the desert an hour outside Dubai, surrounded by oryx and gazelles

The neighbourhood

Can you count the Empty Quarter, which stretches across the United Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia, Yemen and Oman, as a “neighbourhood”?

It’s the setting for tented camp Al Maha, an hour’s drive south from downtown Dubai (possible in an Uber, although the drive through the sand at the end is better suited to a 4x4, which the hotel can organise), in the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve, near the border with Oman. In fact, on clear days – which tend to fall during the cooler winter months – you’ll be able to see the Jabal Akhdar mountains of Oman clearly defined in the distance.

Uniquely, this 225-sq-m conservation reserve, established in 2002 and the UAE’s first, is stuffed with ghaf trees, gazelle and native oryx. From the main gates to Al Maha, it’s a winding five-mile drive across the dunes.

In short: there isn’t much around.

The look

A string of rustic, Bedouin-style “tents” sprawls across the dunes from the main lobby, which is styled like a traditional “majlis” (meeting place) and slung with wooden furniture and cosy rugs. And “tents” is pushing it: these are standalone rooms that have pushed Arabian luxe to the max, with heavy wooden chests, billowing curtains, and antiques. Added extras inside, such as an easel and paints, as well as binoculars, add to the Lawrence of Arabia vibe. Buggies are around to zip guests to and from the main lobby, restaurant and tents, although the walk rarely takes more than five minutes, and the pathway is atmospherically lit by night.

Outside each tent, there’s a generous decking area with a couple of sun-loungers and a heated plunge pool overlooking the dunes.

You can supersize your stay by booking one of the two royal suites or two Emirates suites. To really push the boat out, book the presidential suite, which is situated in the most secluded part of the resort and has a bumper courtyard.

The vibe

Happily isolating. Each standalone tent feels totally secluded, and your only neighbours will be the curious gazelles that graze nearby and which are often partial to a date or two. It’s earthy, as well: there are more than 130 species of birds, oryx and gazelle that stroll unencumbered around the resort.

While it’s easy to hole up here, bouncing between pool and sun-lounger, and ordering room service, there are a number of different activities on offer for guests (and typically included in an all-inclusive package), such as camel rides, sunset drives, archery and falcon shows.

Bed and bath

Of the 42 guest rooms, most are classed as Bedouin suites. The deep, spongy, king-size beds, which are dressed in white linen, face straight out of the tents’ floor-to-ceiling windows, past the plunge pool and into the desert beyond. (Don’t be surprised if the first thing you see when you pull the drapes open is a gazelle’s face pressed against the glass.)

Bathrooms are similarly lush, with large tubs, walk-in showers and Byredo products. It’s about as far from desert camping as you can get.

Food and drink

The main restaurant Al Diwaan is lit romantically come nightfall with large outdoor candles, and seating either on a raised terrace overlooking the desert and nearby watering hole or inside the Arabian-styled dining room. Lunch and dinner is a multi-course affair, with local Arabian choices such as beef biryani and grilled meats, as well as ever-popular pasta and pizza dishes. Breakfasts are buffet-style, with a la carte dishes, including the yummy shakshuka and ful medames, a type of fava bean stew.

Drinks are available in the Hajar Terrace Bar, just off the lobby, on the level above Al Diwaan, which is also where complimentary afternoon tea is served each afternoon.

Public areas

The Arabian-style Timeless Spa offers a range of treatments (including Ayurvedic ones) as well as the usual spa facilities, including a Rasul chamber and a hot tub. There’s a bigger communal pool here, if you want a proper swim – the plunge pools that accompany each tent are really only good for a quick dip.

There’s a small shop inside the lobby, selling Persian carpets and trinkets (be warned: at a hefty price).

Nuts and bolts

Room count: 42, including 37 Bedouin suites, two royal suites, two Emirates suites and one presidential suite

Freebies: Afternoon tea in the lobby, which runs from 3-5pm each day

In the bathroom: Byredo toiletries

Wifi: Complimentary

Extra charges: The UAE tourism tax, which is payable per night per room (depending on the room charge). Al Maha is an all-inclusive resort, and on a typical package, everything is included, from food to activities.

Minibar prices: From £3

Disability access: One Bedouin tent is specially designed with disabled guests in mind. The rest of the resort is equally disability friendly.

Pet policy: Not allowed

Bottom line

Best thing: The novelty factor of being in the desert, just an hour from the city

Worst thing: The flies – there are lots of them.

Perfect for: Anybody on a holiday suffixed with -moon.

Not right for: Young families. The resort welcomes children aged 10 and above, though.

Instagram from: It’s hard to beat a selfie from your tent’s plunge pool, ideally with a gazelle strolling in the background.

Room rate: From $1,000 (£760) a night on an all-inclusive basis

al-maha.com