What is glycolic acid and why should I be using it?
Acid. It may not be the obvious choice when it comes to skincare, but in actual fact, a little light acid action - we're talking very low quantities here (think of it like diluted lemon juice) - could be exactly what your complexions need. Especially in the run up to the clocks springing forward, when our skin may need a bit of extra help at the end of winter to sweep away the dullness.
You have two choices here - firstly the in-salon peel (effective but pricey), or a barrage of pretty impressive products that you can use at home.
If you're nervous of using skin acids DIY style, don't be. While you might feel a gentle 'tingle' (especially if your skin is dry meaning that an acid-derived product has to work harder to buff away the top layer of dulling skin to reveal something all together more glowing underneath) you absolutely won't get a burn.
For some extra reassurance, listen to what skin expert Dr David Jack has to say about the science and satisfaction of glycolic acid on the skin.
What is glycolic acid?
Glycolic acid, along with lactic acid, belong to a group of chemicals called alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which can be found in various fruits and milk.
Is it okay to use an acid, even a fruit based one, on my skin?
At low concentrations these types of acids can be very beneficial. As with vitamin A in skincare, it’s best to use low concentrations when you start applying them to the skin as they can cause irritation. Once the skin gets used to AHAs you can increase the concentration without much risk of irritation or reaction.
How will my skin feel after using glycolic acid?
Initially your skin will feel dry and almost dusty, but as it starts to take effect, your complexion will look brighter and feel a lot smoother.
Right, but it will still remedy my dry skin eventually?
Yes. Glycolic is often prescribed to resolve major skin concerns related to dryness, texture, clarity, firmness and elasticity. Where dry skin can cause dullness, using an acid removes the top, dull layers, promoting the production of collagen and elastin. It’s a rapid exfoliant that will slough away dead, dry skin cells resulting in an even-toned radiant and glowing appearance.
What results will I see if I use glycolic acid?
After one salon treatment the first thing you’ll notice is redness, but that goes away after a few hours. In the morning your skin will feel rough - but this is a good thing as it means the treatment is working and the dead skin is flaking off. Use only gentle skincare so as not to irritate the fresh, new skin that’s coming through, and a dedicated SPF cream with a high factor. Within four days your skin will have shed to reveal new glowing skin, referred to as the 'Glycolic Glow.' (Which you can boost the effects of by reading these tips).
Using glycolic acid daily as an exfoliator is an easy way of incorporating low levels into your regime, but also serves to build up your skin’s tolerance. Regular use can remarkably improve the condition of skin by balancing the acid mantle and providing an even and deep exfoliation, as well as increasing cell turnover, which leaves skin looking fresh and healthy.
Four of the best to try
The toner
Applied like a toner, Pixi's Glow Tonic, £18 is a gentle solution of 5% glycolic that can be swept over cheeks on a cotton pad to polish away dull skin cells. Use a couple of times a week and follow with a moisturiser.
The DIY Peel
This is as close as you'll get to a professional peel at home. Dr Dennis Gross' Alpha Beta Universal Peel, £18 for 5 treatments, contains a blend of five Alpha Hydroxy Acids, including glycolic as well as salicylic (a Beta Hydroxy Acid). The patented two-step system (a smoothing acid and antioxidant packed formula followed by a skin-soothing neutraliser) ensures a comfortable exfoliation. And, despite the name, it doesn't cause unsightly peeling. Rather, it helps to loosen the top layer of dead skin cells to make way for the fresh, new cells beneath. This is best employed occasionally when you need to bring out the big guns.
The serum
A lightweight serum texture that can be applied under moisturiser, Garden Of Wisdom's Glycolic Acid Serum 5%, £12, is lovely and gentle as well as free from alcohol and silicones.
The Mask
The ultimate remedy to pasty face (sad, wilty, flaky, post-hangover complexions), Ren's Glycol Lactic Radiance Renewal Mask, £36, is a one-stop shop to fresher, dewier looking skin. Slather on, avoiding your eye area, leave for ten minutes, then massage away with a warm flannel.
