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Get the glow: why an at-home chemical peel is the remedy for dull, lifeless winter skin

Murad
Murad

The lack of vitamin D from sunshine, skin-drying central heating and the increased alcohol intake that party season brings can leave our skin looking grey and lifeless.

But before you attempt to counter your winter skin by slathering your face in hyaluronic acid serum or an expensive face oil, you might want to consider first using a chemical peel.

The word peel sounds scary – and possibly conjures images of Samantha’s red raw face in Sex and the City season five – but, in reality, a gentle peel is an important step of any good skincare regime because it sloughs off the dead cells on the surface of your skin, so that your skincare can penetrate deeper and work harder for you.

Professional grade peels are available in most salons, but there are also a whole host of amazing at-home products on the market now that, while gentler in dosage, will still achieve the desired stimulating and exfoliating effects (without any puce-faced perils).

Most at-home peels contain Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) such as glycolic or lactic acids or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) such as salicylic acid, which help to smooth the skin, unclog blocked pores and encourage cell turnover for an instantly smoother skin. They make fine lines and wrinkles appear less visible and also help to help fade pigmentation while brightening the skin.

In order to get some advice on when, which and how often we should be using an at-home peel, we spoke to Dr Howard Murad, M.D., Founder of Murad Skincare, who is renowned for his peels and was, in fact, the first person to use glycolic acid in skincare over 20 years ago.

As a board-certified dermatologist, trained pharmacist and Associate Clinical Professor of Medicine at the Geffen School of Medicine, UCLA, Dr. Murad has personally treated over 50,000 patients. In 1989, he founded Murad to share his ground-breaking skincare formulas and last month he added a second peel to his range, the Replenishing Multi Acid Peel. Unlike his Intensive-C Radiance Peel, which you are meant to use once or twice a week, this gentler liquid formulation can be used daily.

Replenishing Multi Acid Peel, £48, Murad
Replenishing Multi Acid Peel, £48, Murad

Read on for what to look for when buying an at-home peel

How often should you use an at-home peel?

We typically recommend using an at-home peel such, as the Intensive-C Radiance Peel, one-two times a week for best results, but with the new Replenishing Multi-Acid Peel, it’s gentle enough to be used every night. The product is bi-phase, it has the acids to resurface the skin in phase one, and soothing lipids and adaptogenic herbs to replenish the skin in phase two, delivering a gentle exfoliation and accelerating skin recovery

Are they for everyone?

Yes, everyone can use a peel, even if you have sensitive skin, as it’s a gentle exfoliation that allows the hydrating and soothing ingredients to be absorbed into the skin.

Which acids suit which skin types?

Glycolic Acid for Ageing Skin: The process of using glycolic acid to increase cell turnover reduces the appearance of wrinkles and contributes to fading age spots. The more hydrated your skin is, the less depth there will be to your lines and wrinkles. When glycolic acid is used in an anti-ageing product, it works to accelerate the movement of fuller, hydrated skin cells to the surface, replacing the drier skin. When used in combination with a skin brightening ingredient such as vitamin C, glycolic acid increases the speed at which the treated, lightened skin makes its way to the surface

Salicylic Acid for Blemish-Prone Skin: Blemishes may be most visible on the surface of the skin, but they actually form beneath the skin inside hair follicles. In order to treat and reduce breakouts and blemishes, you need to use blemish treatment products that will penetrate the skin. Clearing away the dead and dry skin on the surface allows salicylic acid to operate more effectively in clearing clogged pores, keeping oil at bay and preventing blemishes

For All Skin Types: Even if your skin concern isn’t breakouts or ageing, all skin types can benefit from a skin care regime that regularly includes using glycolic acid and other AHAs (like lactic acid) and BHAs (like salicylic acid) to remove the dull surface skin cells to reveal your most radiant skin

What else should I look for in an at-home peel product?

Looking at the formula as a whole is key, don’t just focus on a percentage of a specific acid for example. Percentage is not as important as many people may have been led to believe, the reality is that it is the combination of ingredients that make the impact.

Studies have shown that lower levels of acids combined with anti-inflammatories and hydrators offer the best results and longer-term benefits. This is because high percentages can often cause inflammation, peeling and irritation, compromising the moisture barrier which can lead to excessive dryness, and even hyperpigmentation.

Modern formulas with better delivery systems provide the ultimate results, so look for other ingredients combined with acids such as encapsulated hyaluronic acid, antioxidants and soothing ingredients such as pomegranate, liquorice root and niacinamide that help to calm skin and strengthen the barrier for better results without the downtime.

Can I use them when it’s sunny outside?

Yes, you can use acids when it’s sunny outside, but we always recommend you use an SPF daily, and this is especially important after using acids or having a peel, as you’ve essentially got rid of the dead layer of skin sitting on the surface revealing the smoother, newer cells underneath so it’s important to protect them from UV damage.

Is there a time of day that’s best to use a peel?

We tend to advise using a peel at night as this is when the skin carries out its repair processes. However, depending on your lifestyle, your regime can of course be adapted

Dr Murad's Replenishing Multi Acid Peel (£48) is available now. Shop it here

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