SINGAPORE — It’s 12.30 pm and, although fashionably late for my 12-noon lunch at Bedrock Origin’s newest outfit at Oasia Resort Sentosa, I couldn’t resist stopping for a while to soak in the breezy expanse of the hotel’s dark and moody lobby. It’s a rare moment of peace I can ill-afford these days as restaurants reopen and re-launch with a vengeance, mimicking the ebb and flow of Singapore’s dining-in restrictions. I’m left slightly panicked, scrambling to review all these new and exciting places that have captured the imagination of Singapore’s adoring food-loving populace, even if it takes me to the island resort of Sentosa.
Bedrock Origin builds on the fame of the OG Bedrock Bar & Grill at Pan Pacific Serviced Suite at Somerset, where, for 13 years, diners flock to for a curated and elevated menu offering of all things meat. This opening at Oasia promises the same devotion to food now evolved into a ‘dining experience of land and sea’, as its website proudly claims.
I like Bedrock Origin. It’s a light-filled space awash with peachy pastel tones and a herringbone wood floor that glows under the globe lamp that runs the length of the restaurant. On the Thursday of my visit, families were enjoying a sumptuous lunch for four, a pair of business associates enjoying an Alaska and a mother-daughter pair bonding over insanely fragrant truffle fries. Yes, it’s fancy, but not too fancy for fries, which I thoroughly appreciate.
Not that the food here is typical by any means. Honey, there’s nothing ordinary about a colossal dry-ager installed between wine chillers from which fish hang and meats rest (separately, of course, they’re not barbarians) until the flesh becomes intoxicated with flavour. Whereas at Somerset, meats rue the day, here, seafood takes centre stage, evidenced by a starter of a deep maroon ombre Kingfish Sashimi (S$32++) served in a round, topped with textured brown rice puff chopped wasabi, and ceviche soy dressing. It did feel a little held back and in need of a tad more seasoning and a touch more acidity.
The Grilled Pear Salad (S$22++) gave me pause when I saw that it was served with blue cheese. “It’s not too intense, Zat. Don’t worry,” the host assures me. I smile, knowing that there’s absolutely nothing not intense about blue cheese. Yes, there may be bitter arugula and sweet dates to distract from blue cheese’s signature pungency, but like a Queen obsessed with power, there’s no taming this beast. I took petite bites of this and gingerly at that, stabbing at the sweet grilled pear with a fierce char on the surface as a respite from the sharp flavour of cheese.
Everything else from here on is impeccable and an exercise in culinary finesse. Feast on the Aged KÜHLBARRA Barramundi Tail (S$88++), crusted in a chimichurri, served with a half-round of lemon. The flesh is flaky, sweet, intense, and such a delight to partake. I have absolutely no complaints except that I had to share the portion. The Turbot on the Bone (S$68++) tries its darndest to live up to the expectations set by the barramundi, and in some small ways, succeeds. But it’s no barramundi, though. Its mild flesh needs the kombu butter for a touch of personality.
Have all that seafood, and then get the sides too as merry accompaniment. The Bedrock Mac ‘N’ Cheese (S$22++) is impeccably seasoned without being too creamy, rich, or cloying. Could I finish everything? Possibly. As the late Whitney Houston preaches, there can be miracles when you believe. And I do believe in this mac ‘n’ cheese.
There’s also a plate of Spiced Brussels Sprouts (S$16++)—fat bulbs of swollen cabbage that looks like it just came from the gym. They’re dressed in a mild chilli oil that promises to give you a slight hint of numbness and a quick nod of spice, all in a presentation I can now declare refreshingly unique.
Remember to get the Yukon Gold Potatoes (S$16++) too, which, though not as boldly seasoned as everything else on the tables, is perfectly pert and subtly tart from being tossed in sour cream. There’re also sliced porcini mushrooms in this, which makes for a perfect snack for a fussy child. If you’re getting this, and you should, remember to pair it with one of their flavourful mains. I am not about to entertain any “This needs salt” complaints from anyone. It’s by design, Steve. Geez.
Of course, there’s the dry-aged Australian Barley-fed bone-in striploin (S$110++/400g) with too many hyphens and too little attention paid to it. It’s a massive irony in and of itself, especially since Bedrock is famed for its steaks. But it’s the dry-aged fish and moreish sides that does it for me. Bone-in steaks? I don’t even know her.
Dessert comes by way of a well-made Palm Torte (S$22++) that looks far too simple and plain for the sort of deliciousness it bears. This comes with a square cake wrapped in cream cheese frosting served with a side of carrot-orange marmalade and fresh blueberries and raspberries for a burst of tart. It’s a decent enough cake to wrap a meal, though you can hardly go wrong with Bedrock Origin’s classic Bombe Alaska, too.
#01-02, Oasia Resort Sentosa Hotel, 23 Beach View, Palawan Ridge, S098679
Mon to Sun: 7am – 11am, 12nn – 3pm, 6pm – 10.30pm