Experts explain how to get rid of those pesky little bumps on the back of your arms
Welcome to Skin Solutions: an expert-led guide to understanding your skin.
Knowing that skincare isn’t one-size-fits-all, we’ve spoken to the industry’s top dermatologists and aestheticians to answer all your questions about your skin type or concern.
Whether dealing with a bout of acne, a rosacea flare-up or eternally dehydrated skin, our Skin Solutions series shares science-backed advice and product recommendations from the pros.
Keratosis pilaris (KP) is the dermatological name for the bumpy and textured skin you may have spotted on the back of your arms. Also known as ‘chicken skin’ or ‘strawberry legs’, KP is a common skin condition that affects more than 40% of adults who live in the UK.
While KP is harmless and shouldn’t affect you in your day-to-day life – it doesn’t tend to be sore or itchy like eczema – the bumpy rash-like texture can impact your confidence, making the condition frustrating to deal with.
Luckily, the symptoms of KP are easy enough to manage and can be done with over-the-counter products. Here, we quizzed the industry’s best dermatologists on everything you need to know.
Meet the experts:
Emma Wedgwood, advanced aesthetic nurse and founder of Emma Wedgwood Aesthetics
Dr Kajal Babamiri, dermatologist at CLNQ
Dr Catherine Leray, head of research and development at THG LABS
Dr Howard Murad, M.D., FAAD, associate clinical professor of medicine at UCLA and founder of Murad Inc
What causes keratosis pilaris?
‘Keratosis pilaris (KP) is a common skin condition characterised by small, rough bumps that often appear on the upper arms, thighs, buttocks, and sometimes the face,’ says Wedgwood. Similarly, strawberry legs is when dirt, dead skin and oil clog up hair follicles on the legs, usually after a shave, which can cause tiny and rough bumps to form.
No matter your skin tone, KP will feel textured and bumpy, but the colour won’t look the same for all. For those with lighter skin, KP will appear red or pink while for those with deeper skin tones, it can look brown or black in tone.
‘The skin condition creates small plugs that block the hair follicles,’ explains Dr Murad. Adding to this, Wedgwood explains that ‘KP occurs when keratin, a protein found in the outer layer of skin, builds up and clogs hair follicles.’
'This buildup of keratin results in rough and uneven skin and although it’s usually harmless, some people might feel self-conscious by KP due to its appearance’, says Dr Leray. While the cause of KP is not fully understood, it often runs in families and those with dry skin, or conditions like eczema, are more likely to develop it.
How can you prevent keratosis pilaris?
Unfortunately, smoothing things over isn’t all that easy. ‘There is no cure but its severity can be managed,’ says Dr Leray. When we discuss treatments, we’re more talking about ways to ease symptoms as the condition cannot be solved entirely.
You may also find that KP behaves a little differently depending on the time of the year. ‘As it’s a skin concern that’s combined with dryness and itchiness, it’s often worse in the wintertime as the skin tends to be drier in these months,’ says Dr Murad.
You don’t need to make major lifestyle changes to manage the symptoms, but a few small adjustments to your body care routine can make all the difference.
Gentle exfoliation
A skincare routine that includes mild cleansing followed by gentle exfoliation and a moisturiser can help,’ says Dr Leray. Wedgwood agrees: ‘Adding a salicylic acid or glycolic acid toner to your skincare regime can also help exfoliate. Retinol is an excellent choice to help prevent KP, too.’
It may be tempting to scrub away those pesky bumps, but this will actually cause more harm than good. Exfoliating gloves, abrasive scrubs or dry brushes can irritate and may exacerbate other conditions like eczema. Your best bet is to go with a gentle chemical exfoliant to smooth and keep your skin barrier happy.
Daily moisturisation
While KP is predominantly inherited, those with dry skin are more likely to develop the condition, so using a gentle, daily moisturiser will keep the skin’s surface hydrated and prevent the KP from flaring up.
‘Moisturisers containing ingredients like urea or lactic acid can also be beneficial in softening the skin and reducing the appearance of bumps,’ says Dr Babamiri. On WH, we like the Ameliorate Transforming Body Lotion. It’s pumped with lactic acid to gently remove dead skin cells while delivering long-lasting moisture and softness to the skin.
‘You should also look for peppermint leaf, azelaic acid and goji berry extract, which can help reduce inflammation and calm the skin. Hyaluronic acid can also help too,’ says Dr Murad.
Retinol
That’s right, everyone’s favourite texture-smoother can be used to tackle KP. Retinoids will increase cell turnover and smooth the top layer of the skin, ultimately resulting in smoother and softer skin. ‘Topical retinoids will also help prevent the hair follicles from getting plugged,’ explains Dr Murad. ‘I’d recommend the Retinol Youth Renewal Serum. It's a potent yet gentle formula that delivers quick results without any irritation or downtime.
Can you treat keratosis pilaris?
If at-home products aren’t making a difference, it may be worth looking into professional laser treatments. ‘Laser treatments, such as fractional laser or intense pulsed light (IPL), can target the appearance of KP bumps. They work by stimulating collagen production which improves the overall skin texture,’ adds Babamiri. In-office treatments can also help to reduce the brown or pink pigmentation around the KP.
IPL uses wavelengths of light to target the wall of blood vessels which causes them to collapse, helping with redness and hyperpigmentation. If tackling texture is what you're after, it may be worth looking into laser hair removal. As KP is caused by trapped hair follicles, removing the hair completely can help with the appearance of the bumps.
The only caveat? Not only are these therapies expensive but, unfortunately, they won't eliminate KP. As KP is part of your DNA, it tends to stick around. However, regular treatments and staying consistent with exfoliation can majorly reduce symptoms.
Where is keratosis pilaris commonly seen on the body?
If you deal with KP, you’ll know that the condition is particular to where it decides to show itself. ‘KP commonly shows up on areas where hair follicles are most prominent, such as the upper arms, thighs, buttocks, and occasionally the face. These areas tend to have more hair follicles, which can become blocked by the excess keratin, leading to the characteristic bumps,’ says Wedgwood.
Is it okay to squeeze or pick your keratosis pilaris?
Keratosis pilaris can sometimes look like tiny pimples with a whitehead-like appearance. As tempting as it may be, it’s crucial not to pop or squeeze them. ‘Doing so can cause irritation, inflammation and potentially scarring,’ says Wedgwood. ‘Instead, use gentle exfoliation – either chemical or physical – combined with a daily moisturiser to manage KP in the long term,’ says Dr Leray.
When should you see a dermatologist?
‘Seeing a dermatologist or skin specialist is advisable if keratosis pilaris is severe, causing discomfort or if self-care measures haven’t improved the condition. A professional can prescribe stronger topical treatments or recommend procedures such as laser therapy. They can also provide personalised advice on skincare routines and procedures tailored to individual needs,’ says Dr Babamiri.
Dr Leray also recommends seeing a dermatologist if your at-home skincare routine hasn’t improved your symptoms in four to six weeks.
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