The perfect holiday in Obertauern, Austria’s secret snow-sure resort
Obertauern is an ideal family destination for those looking for easy intermediate runs and slopes from the doorstep in a relaxed atmosphere. While it doesn’t boast the razzmatazz of a major resort, it’s also home to lively mountain huts and bars, and has a snow-sure record that’s a draw for freeriders in search of off-piste powder as well as on-piste cruisers.
The resort is both Austria’s only attempt at a purpose-built destination and also one of its oldest, established in the early 1900s. Admittedly, in the early days the majority of the guests were Alpine troops in training, and accommodation was largely in the most basic of emergency shelters, to protect them from the frequent storms that bury the pass in winter.
Between the World Wars local skiers used the road to reach the superb snowfields at 2,300m – high by Austrian standards. A weird assortment of customised tracked vehicles pulled them up until finally the first lift was built, in 1948. It wasn’t until the 1960s that Obertauern sealed its main claim to fame, when The Beatles came to town. Locals today still can’t believe that the dice fell so decisively in their favour.
Stay on track with the essential facts from the resort below, and scroll down for our insider guide to a day on the pistes, expert ratings and advice. For further Obertauern inspiration, see our guides to the resort's best accommodation, restaurants and après ski.
In this guide:
Inside the resort
As the post-war ski boom got under way, a handful of hotels began to appear along the side of the road in Obertauern. But to find the investment and the volume of visitors required to create a successful ski resort in the middle of nowhere rather more than a fair share of luck is necessary. This came in the unlikely form of a certain band from Liverpool.
Obertauern’s combination of guaranteed spring snow cover, even at village level, along with the fact it was then largely unknown to British holidaymakers made it a perfect location for Richard Lester, director of the film Help!. The Beatles and a crew of 60 spent a fortnight filming here in March 1965, and two local part-time ski instructors were picked to be the ski doubles for Paul McCartney and George Harrison. Today the families of Herbert Lürzer and Gerhard Krings own a golden portfolio of hotels, restaurants, shops, even some of the ski lifts and pistes.
Today Obertauern’s 100km of pistes are served by a respectable 26 lifts, which go from 1,630m up to 2,313m, and notable snow security means it opens from late November until early May.
At either end of the season when lower or less snow-blessed Austrian resorts may be struggling to open – or to remain open – Obertauern is half-buried in the white stuff. What’s more, the shape and pitch of most of the terrain makes it relatively avalanche secure for freeriders.
This, along with ski-in/ski-out convenience make Obertauern quite distinct from the Austrian pack. The downside is that there’s no real village centre as such, rather a growing number of hotels with bars and restaurants, and adjacent shops. However the resort makes an effort to add atmosphere with events such as opening and closing concerts, a huge end-of-season treasure hunt and an annual Christmas market in December.
On the slopes
When the sun is shining anyone who enjoys blue and easy red runs is going to have a ball in Obertauern. Its essentially 100km of intermediate terrain is served by a respectable 26 lifts (three gondolas, 17 chairlifts and six drag-lifts), encompassing seven peaks on both sides of the road that leads up to the pass. The lifts go from 1,630m to a top altitude of 2,313m, and sufficient snow cover is virtually guaranteed from the end of November until early May.
Facilities for beginners are good, with nursery slopes located across the resort, notably by the car parks at the western end of the village, and Obertauern fits the bill as the definitive Austrian resort for ski-in/ski-out convenience.
It’s possible to travel a compact circuit in both directions, with access points scattered along the road leading up the pass, and is best travelled by following the red Tauernrunde circuit in a clockwise direction, and the green signs anti-clockwise. Bear in mind however, that following the signage and map can be tricky, and when the weather closes in at this high altitude above the tree line, the task becomes even more challenging.
The separate S7 (Super Seven) route marked on the map is a tour of the seven high points of the area is also worth doing, and the route is easier to follow. There are also two family-friendly circuits, one tailored for younger and one for older children, with fun features like time-trials to try.
But despite the confusing piste map, the advantages of Obertauern far outweigh its weaknesses. Most of the slopes are given over to blue/red cruising runs. The top of the Seekarspitz chair is the kicking-off point for some fabulous long reds and great views. The descent beneath the Gamsleiten 2 chair from just below the summit of the 2,357m Gamsleitenspitz is a steep and usually bumped-up black that can be challenging – it is narrow in parts and often icy. There is night skiing on Thursdays at the Edelweissbahn from 7 to 10pm.
Freeride opportunities abound, and it’s best to hire a local guide to sample them. While much of the terrain is relatively avalanche-safe, there’s plenty of steeper stuff reached by a short hike. Information boards at freeride checkpoints at lift stations include route maps as current conditions and avalanche advice.
The Spot – Obertauern’s terrain park, reached via the Kehrkopf chair – is 3km in length with three lines for different standards and some 40 obstacles, as well as a full range of kickers. There’s a children’s snowpark with a 200m long, covered magic carpet at Schaidberg named after the resort’s rabbit mascot, Bobby.
The standard of tuition is high here, with seven competing ski and snowboard schools and some gentle nursery slopes, along with freeride courses and a separate snow kite school. Two toboggan runs and sleigh rides add to the resort’s attraction as a family destination.
Who should go?
Obertauern has two features that separate it quite distinctly from the Austrian pack – snow security and ski-in/ski-out convenience. The resort is an ideal destination for those in search of easy intermediate runs in a relaxed atmosphere, as well as families who enjoy its purpose-built hassle-free nature.
Where to stay
Austria doesn’t do purpose-built ski-in/ski-out resorts like France, but it’s possible to step directly onto the piste from most hotels in Obertauern in the morning and ski back home in the afternoon. it stands out from other Austrian resorts in this respect, but equally it lacks a distinct village centre - instead the main hub is a straggle of hotels, bars, shops and restaurants. Most guesthouses and hotels are traditionally Austrian in style, ranging from family-run mid-range b&bs to large, spa hotels with family-focussed facilities, but recent openings have brought a more edgy and youthful vibe to the resort.
How to get there
Since Obertauern is an extremely popular resort with both German and Austrian tourists, the choice of UK tour operator packages is somewhat limited - as well as pricey, but there is plenty of accommodation, including apartments, to book directly. Crystal (crystalski.co.uk), Sunweb (sun web.co.uk) and Inghams (inghams.co.uk) offer a small selection of relatively high-end hotels, while Snowtrex (snowtrex.co.uk) has cheaper three-star options. The nearest airport is Salzburg, and bus line 270 operates to Eben im Pongau for shuttle transfers to Obertauern. The nearest rail station is Radstadt (20km) with bus (oebb.at) or taxi connections.
When to go
2024 opening date: November 22, 2024
2025 closing date: May 1, 2025
One of the snowiest resorts in Austria, high altitude Obertauern has a long, snow sure season, and is usually blanketed in white from late November, even at village level. However, the flip side of its altitude is that the high pistes can be very cold and exposed when it snows early in the season. The resort puts on a big party for its season start, with live concerts over the first full weekend after it opens to the public. There is also a packed advent programme leading up to Christmas including torch-lit walks, festive markets and live music. Austria’s “funniest and largest” treasure hunt takes place in the resort from April 10 to 13. The prize? A brand new BMW.
Know before you go
Essential information
British Embassy Vienna: (00 43 1 713 1575; gov.uk), Jauresgasse 12, 1030 Vienna
Emergency services: Dial 112
Tourist office: See obertauern.com, the website of the Obertauern Tourist Board, for weather reports, lift status, webcams, traffic details and local event listings. Pick up maps, leaflets and other information from the office located in the centre of the resort.
The basics
Currency: Euro
Telephone code: Dial 00 43
Time difference: +1 hour
Local laws & etiquette
Formal greetings are the norm when meeting someone, and you'll hear 'Grüss Gott' (greeting the almighty), or the more worldly 'Guten Morgen/Tag/Abend', just about everywhere you go, and it's customary to return the salutation. Locals love their titles, so if you are meeting someone who has a university degree, not only are you expected to know this fact, but you're expected to use the title whilst shaking hands e.g 'Grüß Gott Herr Doktor' in cafés and restaurants the waiter will expect to hear a 'Herr Ober' (Mr. waiter) from guests seeking attention.
Tips are not included, nor is it usual to leave them on the table. After the waiter has given you the bill add roughly 10 per cent and ask for it to be added to the total.
A simple thank you is 'Danke'; 'Bitte' means both 'please' and 'you're welcome'.
