Ever felt burning during a gel mani? Here's how to stop 'heat spikes'
If you've ever found your mind wandering during a salon manicure, only to be jolted back to reality by the bizarre burning sensation of your nails frying under the UV lamp, then know that you’ve just experienced one of beauty's strangest wake-up calls. First, it's important to note this is not normal. Second, you're not the only one who’s silently wondered if their fingers are about to combust.
While some beauty treatments are known to be uncomfortable (waxing and threading, we’re glaring at you), when it comes to manicures, pain isn’t exactly supposed to be part of the package. So, what’s behind that sudden hand-on-fire moment? And perhaps even more pressing: what can you say to your nail tech without sounding like a drama queen to make it stop? Below, Giorgia Cappella, Head of Education & Spa at The GelBottle, reveals all. From what causes the sudden sting, to what you can do when it strikes.
What causes a heat spike during a gel manicure?
'During the polymerisation process,' explains Cappella, 'monomers and oligomers join together to form cross linked polymer chains that make up the hard gel surface, however some people often feel a burning sensation on their nails during curing.' It's this odd sensation that is known as a heat spike.
She continues, 'heat spikes are caused when the polymerisation process happens to quickly – otherwise known as over curing. Essentially, the monomers and oligomers attempt to polymerise too quickly and create an exothermic reaction, which clients then feel as heat on the nail.'
While it's true that thin nail plates, whether naturally occurring or due to excessive use of gels, can be the reason for heat spikes, generally they are caused by incorrect product application and curing times. Essentially, they're not meant to happen.
Are heat spikes bad for your nails?
Ongoing heat spikes over time can cause injury, such as the nail separating from the nail bed, which is known as onycholysis and can lead to infections.
What to do about heat spikes
So, what can you do when a heat spike occurs? 'If you ever feel a heat spike during your service, its important to make the technician aware, so they can ensure they are using the correct curing settings and minimising your discomfort,' says Cappella.
As with all beauty treatments, knowledge is power, so don't be afraid to speak to your nail tech. 'It’s really important for technicians to follow manufacturers guidance for curing and use the correct curing settings at all times to limit discomfort for clients but it’s equally important for clients to understand so they can confidently voice concerns with technicians.'
The easiest thing you can do is to ask your nail tech to turn down the heat setting. 'Low heat mode settings on UV lamps encourage the same cure as a standard 60 second, however at a lower intensity, you need to do it over a longer period of time, most commonly 99 seconds. This slows down the reaction process and minimises heat spikes,' explains Cappella.
'All products will have guidance for curing times but ultimately low-heat mode settings should be used for curing thicker viscosity products to minimise this,' she adds. Think BIAB or acrylics. So there you have it, armed with this sage advice, may your manicure be heat-free for the foreseeable.
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