The gentleman’s guide to wearing jeans – without offending people

At the end of December, Norwegian chess Grandmaster Magnus Carlsen made headlines when he was dramatically ejected from the World Rapid and Blitz Chess Championships in New York for flouting the competition’s strict no-denim dress code.

Perhaps leaning a little too heavily into his past role as the face of G-Star Raw Denim (yup), Carlsen stood his ground, refusing to compete until the rules were bent in his favour. His persistence ultimately paid off – Carlsen re-entered the tournament wearing jeans once again, this time in a seemingly more acceptable shade of grey.

“Denim wearing has always been a thorny issue in the menswear rulebook,” says Patrick Grant, founder of Community Clothing and a menswear expert. “Arch snob Hardy Amies declared jeans should never, ever be worn by gentlemen; Tom Ford followed suit (then backtracked and did his own tailored jeans). Ultimately, riveted denim jeans are workwear, designed for utility not elegance, so it should come as no surprise that they don’t look all that.”

But in an era where denim has evolved from said workwear essential into a couture staple – championed on the runway by the likes of Balenciaga and Schiaparelli – and is even permitted in select areas of Ascot, the question begs: barring sniffy chess tournaments, is there anywhere that denim can’t be worn?

Good restaurants

If you’re heading to Pizza Express, feel free to wear whatever you like (denim pyjamas aside). But if your destination features a maître d’ and a month-long waiting list, it’s worth giving your outfit a little more thought.

It’s not about avoiding denim altogether, but choosing the right kind. Your style should reflect the vibe of the place. For relaxed-yet-refined eateries, a pair of clean, well-fitting jeans and a nice sweater works perfectly. On the other hand, smarter or Michelin-starred venues – think London’s historic Rules – call for denim with a sharper cut, paired with more polished accompaniments.

“A restaurant that doesn’t allow denim in this day and age is bonkers,” says Adam Hyman, founder of Code Hospitality. “I often go for a vintage pair of Levi’s, a chunky knit, brogues, and an unstructured blazer when dining at places like Jeremy King’s Arlington or The Dover in Mayfair. If it’s somewhere more informal, like a spot in Soho, I might opt for a baggier Studio Nicholson jean paired with Vans Reissue 98s to match the laid-back atmosphere.”

High-end hotels

Though most London hotels have relaxed their dress codes in recent years – Claridge’s, The Connaught, The Peninsula, and both Mandarin Orientals now allow guests to wear jeans – there are still some notable exceptions. “Even the best five-star hotels now permit denim,” says Hyman. “I enjoy pairing a tuxedo jacket with a smart pair of jeans for a drink at Claridge’s. Maybe it’s even time to try out the Canadian tuxedo next time I go for dinner.”

The Ritz, however, remains a bastion of tradition, enforcing a strict no-denim policy. According to its dress code, “jeans and sportswear are not permitted for afternoon tea, nor for lunch or dinner in The Ritz Restaurant and Terrace.” William Hanson, etiquette expert and author of Just Good Manners, explains: “If the dress code of a restaurant or hotel does not allow jeans, then jeans cannot be worn, no matter how chic they may be. No one is above following a dress code. If you disagree with it, simply book somewhere else.”

Members’ clubs

When it comes to members’ clubs, denim becomes more divisive. Soho House famously allows its creatively inclined members to wear whatever they like – a policy mirrored by Maison Estelle. However, at the more traditional and storied establishments in Mayfair and its environs, the rules tighten considerably.

At Annabel’s, “smart jeans in a solid colour and good repair” are permitted, while at Mark’s, dark jeans are allowed but only before 6pm. George takes a similarly measured approach, permitting jeans as long as they’re “smart” and in a “solid colour.”

Meanwhile, the gentlemen’s clubs of Pall Mall remain staunchly traditional, with denim firmly off-limits. Both the RAC Club and White’s require members to adhere to a formal dress code at all times, with not a trace of denim to be found.

Funerals

It should go without saying that, unless explicitly stated otherwise, funerals call for dark, formal attire. The ideal choice is a black suit paired with a black tie. If a full suit isn’t an option, tailored separates in black or very dark navy are appropriate alternatives. In some cases, dark, slim-cut denim with no visible distressing, embellishments or logos may be passable – but only when paired with a tailored jacket or coat to maintain a polished look. Remember: you’re there to pay your respects, so you should look respectful.

Weddings

Denim at a wedding is an unequivocal no. As a guest, your attire should be one or two levels less formal than the bride or groom, which typically means a suit at best and a blazer with chinos at worst. Save your denim for the post-wedding brunch the next day – unless you’re willing to risk incurring the bride’s wrath. “I’d draw the line at wearing jeans to weddings or funerals,” agrees Grant. “I read of someone recently binning their partner because he’d rocked up at a wedding in jeans.”

Christenings

Unless you’re the parent or godparent of the child being baptised, it’s generally acceptable to wear slim-cut, dark denim jeans paired with a shirt and blazer to a christening. These events often take place on weekends when the weather is warming up, so the dress code is typically more relaxed. The key is to look polished and celebratory, not sloppy.

“If your hosts aren’t the type to clutch their pearls at the sight of denim at a baptism, then by all means, go for it,” agrees Hanson. “But for most, given the occasion, jeans might not be ideal. Show up in your Levi’s Ribcages, and they may quietly seat you at the back when they see you stroll into the church.”

‘Smart’ dress code

I’ve lost track of how many invitations I’ve received that specify a “smart” dress code – and how many times I’ve cursed the vagueness of the term. In truth, if the dress code says “smart”, your safest bet is to wear a suit or a close variation of one. That said, you can probably get away with denim, provided it’s simple, well-cut and styled thoughtfully. Think high-waisted indigo jeans from Loewe or mid-rise Officer jeans in pristine white from LEJ London, paired with a tailored jacket and polished loafers.

“Should jeans be allowed, and you feel it wouldn’t be inappropriate to wear them, make sure they’re free of distress marks, studs or ventilation at the kneecaps,” advises Hanson. “As a general rule, darker-wash jeans tend to look smarter than the conventional lighter blue.”

Race meets

Royal Ascot – and indeed any prestigious race meet – comes with strict dress codes that vary by enclosure, making it crucial to review the style guide before attending. This year, Ascot’s dress code has been curated by its new creative director, menswear designer Daniel Fletcher.

“In the upper enclosures at Royal Ascot, jeans are strictly off-limits,” says Fletcher. “But outside of those specific dress codes, you can create a chic race-day look with a smart-casual approach to seasonal occasionwear. Always pay attention to the cut and colour of your denim – well-tailored shapes and darker washes paired with a shirt and blazer can look elevated and polished.”

Fletcher also advises being mindful of additional requirements. “If you’re in a restaurant, private box, or one of the premier enclosures, check if a collar and tie are mandatory. It’s all about dressing for the occasion while maintaining a refined look.”

Read more of Teo van den Broeke’s writing at The Closet on Substack