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Erdem SS22 Was All About Edwardian Elegance Meets American Gothic

Photo credit: NARS
Photo credit: NARS

On Sunday evening, Erdem Moralioglu filled the perimeter of the British Museum with anticipated chatter from the gathering fashion crowd. Against the background of Greek Revival architecture and monumental columns unfolded a story; not one of Greek tragedy but of unconformity and eccentricity.

The muses for Erdem's SS22 collection? Dame Edith Sitwell and Lady Ottoline Morrell who influenced the show's unconventional yet elegant style, sitting in stark contrast with the 1990s rave and street-style inspired shows at the front end of London fashion week.

Demure gowns, Edwardian tailoring and florals worthy of fairytale illustrations ruled the garments; a collection that posed tough competition for beauty to make a statement next to, had it not been in the hands of industry luminaries, hair stylist Larry King and make-up artist Jane Richardson.

Photo credit: NARS
Photo credit: NARS

While Edwardian apparel was the modus operandi of the collection, the beauty presented itself in a less literal approach. 'The beauty looks were inspired by the photo album of Morrell, which served as the inspiration for the skin,' Erdem told ELLE. 'She had a ghost-like quality to her and it was about creating something quietly dramatic and ethereal, with a dark lid that gave a moody feel. Long cascading braids for the hair felt as romantic as they did modern.'

Modesty and haunting femininity were mixed with modernism when it came to the make-up. Muted neutral tones emphasised the eyes without drawing focus from the overall look, giving the models an almost antique doll-like appearance. 'Sepia toned shadows give depth to the eyes for a timeless quality, and by focusing on the unusual placement the make-up works to evoke a timeless quality to the look,' explained Richardson.

'Mixing together NARS eyeshadows Tulum and Noumea, I used a blending brush to apply a wash underneath the brow, working just above and along the crease of the eye towards the temple. The same mix was applied just under the lower lashes to the middle part only.'

Photo credit: NARS
Photo credit: NARS

This specific placement under the lash line worked to open up the eye while creating a soft-focus effect. The key takeaways for achieving this look? 'No mascara!' says Richardson. 'A hard ask I know, but with nothing on the lashes you maintain the soft and graceful mood of the look.'

While the make-up conveyed subtle period romanticism, the hair, masterminded by King, was undoubtedly one of the stand-out looks of LFW. Glazed with a mirror like sheen, a centre-parted Rapunzel-esque braid trailed down models' backs, secured, in true Erdem style, with a black velvet ribbon.

'I followed Erdem's rich Edwardian inspiration and created a middle parting with a curved shape to cover the ears, teamed with a super long modern braid, showing a period feel with a modern twist while also taking inspiration from the American Gothic painting,' says King.

It seems that plaits are here to stay when it comes to next season's hair trends; from sculptural braids at Christian Siriano, to tiny micro plaits at Altuzarra, we recommend polishing up on your weaving skills for SS22.

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