This eco-chic Caribbean retreat is a restorative tonic for life’s stresses
There are three ways to get to Jade Mountain, a luxe resort tucked into the verdant hills of St Lucia: by boat, by helicopter or, like me, via an hour-long car ride from Hewanorra airport, culminating in 15 minutes of bumping along a road on the cliff’s edge that has been decimated to the point of near non-existence. Yet despite the logistical challenges, one thing becomes clear the moment you enter your private, open-air suite (aptly dubbed your “sanctuary”). In this case, the ends justify the means.
After hours of donning a mask for Covid-safe air travel, nothing feels quite as sweet as the kiss of Caribbean sun and gentle sea breeze across your face as you enter your room. Designed by the eco-conscious architect and hotelier Nick Troubetzkoy, no two rooms at Jade Mountain are alike. Each thoughtfully and uniquely composed space contains different iterations of the same private infinity pools tiled with iridescent recycled glass, locally made tropical-wood furniture and geometric sink basins. The result is a space that feels specially carved out for each guest lucky enough to call it home for a few days.
Design flourishes aside, the pièce de résistance of each room is really the absent fourth wall, replaced instead by an open-air terrace providing unobstructed views of a Windex-blue sea punctuated by St Lucia’s signature Petit and Gros Piton mountains. The constant fresh-air flow offers a number of advantages, not least of which being comfort for the Covid-cautious traveler. It also seems to diminish that nagging “I should get out and explore more” feeling that so often comes with travel because, well, you’re already “out”. St Lucia’s premiere tourist attraction, the Pitons, are already on full display – both from the private terrace and reflected in the ensuite infinity pool.
During a recent visit, I did manage to step outside for a few activities, including a six-course, gourmet lionfish dinner on the beach. All but the final dessert course featured a different preparation of the invasive species fish paired with New World wines and sunset views. Earlier that day, I spent time hiking the surrounding hills with the resort’s sustainability ambassador Carl Hunter, and learning about the myriad ways Jade Mountain works to minimise its ecological impact. A restored 18th-century reservoir and aqueduct, built to service the sugar plantation that once existed where the resort now sits, is not only beautiful to admire from the hiking trails, it also serves as a catchment for rain and river flow and ensures no water for the resort is diverted from the local ecosystem or nearby town of Soufriere.
You can also tour the resort-owned Emerald Farm, from which the kitchen sources about 50 per cent of its ingredients, including the cacao used for its decadent chocolate desserts. Soon, the farm will feature an on-site microbrewery and bakery where Jade Mountain guests can come for tastings and cooking classes.
For the most part, however, guests will be content to cocoon in their sanctuary. After starting the morning with some sunrise yoga and meditation, your Majordomo arrives with breakfast, a bright smile and, in my case, singing The Rascals’ quintessential island anthem, “It’s a Beautiful Morning”, because no matter where you are in St Lucia, it’s true.
After a year of pandemic-induced unpredictability, spending a few idyllic days floating in the pool, lingering over locally grown black coffee and a book, or just watching the sun quietly rise and set from the terrace might just be the simple medicine our souls need now more than ever.
