Does DNA-based skincare work?

From Harper's BAZAAR

As an identical twin, I'm fascinated by the idea of DNA-based skincare – the subdivision that takes your genetic make-up into account when 'prescribing' your products.

Growing up, I always experimented with beauty to assert my individuality, so it really intrigues me that my dream skincare could actually be found by looking in the same place as my sister – no, not a beauty hall, but our near-identical DNA.

While DNA-based skincare isn't new, the trend for a more personalised beauty routine is growing, alongside our understanding of genetics and genetic testing. This means it could be time to reassess how you choose your next skincare product.

To test the concept, my twin sister Jenny and I trialled Allél – a skincare brand that uses DNA analysis – for three months. Our aim: to see how much our similar DNA reflected on our experiences with the products.

The science

"Recent studies suggest our genetics account for 50 to 60 per cent of ageing," reveals Dr Elisabet Hagert, the co-founder of Allél. The rest relates to lifestyle factors. "This means how we age really is dependent on our genetic predispositions."

"The slogan of Allél is 'know the skin you're in' and by taking the DNA test, you'll find out what your strengths and weaknesses are with regard to skin ageing," Hagert continues. "In general, the Allél products will rehydrate your skin, improve lustre, reduce wrinkles and, for those with sensitive skin, have a calming effect."

How it works

Step one: Allél sends you a DNA test, which you use by swabbing the inside of your mouth. Then, it is sent off to the lab for testing.

Step two: Your sample is analysed by investigating 16 DNA markers, which are broken down into five key driver categories for skin ageing, including collagen breakdown, irritation and pigmentation.

Step three: You attend a face-to-face consultation where your results are explained to you. You also have a professional skin and lifestyle evaluation that contributes to your overall 'skin score'.

Step four: This 'skin score' is used to assign the right products from the Allél range for you.

Our skin before

Becki Murray: "As Bazaar's beauty assistant it's part of my job to test products, which shows in my skin in both positive and negative ways. I have a very sensitive, rosacea-affected complexion, so I rely on light, super-hydrating serums (containing hyaluronic acid) and soothing moisturisers recommended by the brands I interact with. I've yet to move onto anti-ageing ingredients like retinols and can find exfoliating acids like AHAs a little harsh for my skin, but I'm a bit of a beauty guinea pig. I've been known to get swept-up in the excitement of a new launch, resulting in redness and sensitivity."

Jenny Murray: "If I'm honest, I have a relaxed approach to my skincare. I don't have a consistent routine but I make sure to always take my make-up off before bed and I use a gentle cleanser, moisturiser and eye cream daily. Like Becki, I have rosacea and I'd say I have good-skin days and bad-skin days (especially when my skin is prone to redness). "

Our results and first thoughts

BM: "As expected, Jenny and I had identical DNA markers, as you'd suspect with twins, so our predispositions to certain types of skin ageing were the same. We both have skin that is more prone to irritation and glycation [skin degradation due to sugar] – which makes sense considering we suffer with rosacea – but we can be a bit smug that our rate of collagen breakdown and pigmentation risk isn't particularly high compared to average.

"In the end, the only slight difference came down to lifestyle. We both live and work in central London - Jenny is a banker - so we are affected by similar factors such as stress and pollution, but I already use an antioxidant serum and Jenny does not. This meant that while all my products fell within the calming 'C' range (the brand is limited by only having five categories, meaning none of the products or ingredients are completely bespoke to you), Jenny was given a protective 'A' (antioxidant) serum to complement her otherwise calming products."

JM: "My first thought was, I really like the packaging, so my gut reaction wasn't very scientific! I was also surprised at how all-encompassing the routine was – you have a face cream, serum, eye cream, cleanser, daily sunscreen and supplements; the latter two I'd never used before.

"What struck me most though was how helpful having a skin consultation was. Not only did it confirm that I have sensitive skin, but the Allél team also talked me through why an antioxidant serum can be so helpful when living in a polluted city like London. Knowing I was more prone to glycation made me think about my lifestyle, something that will stay with me after I finish the products."