Dior's New Modern Tailoring Collection: The Antidote To Our Style Ennui

Charlie Teasdale
·2-min read
Photo credit: Dior
Photo credit: Dior

From Esquire

The suit has been having a bit of shocker for a few years now. Traditional ‘smart’ clothing has been out of favour – both in and away from the workplace – since ‘streetwear’ grabbed the fashion industry by the scruff of its neck and made us all reappraise the traditions of style. At the men’s Autumn/Winter shows at in January 2019, it looked as though the tide was turning and suits would be making a comeback at the end of the year. Countless brands, that had shifted their output to the casual and technical, were reverting back to luxury, structure and craft. Then the pandemic hit and the very notion of fashion – let alone the notion of tailoring – went into flux.

As 2020 draws to a close, where does the suit fit in our collective wardrobe? Thankfully, it looks as though the stylish minds at Dior have an answer.

Photo credit: Dior
Photo credit: Dior

The new Modern Tailoring capsule collection comprises three jackets and three pairs of trousers, each available in three cloths, which are all designed to be interchangeable. There is a double-breasted jacket, a single-breasted, three-button jacket and a Harrington-style zip-down jacket, as well as chinos, slim cut suit trousers and trousers with an elasticated waist. The fabrics span the greyscale of houndstooth, Prince of Wales check and a black wool and mohair blend. There are Dior-ish details – the cross-strap on the lapel of the DB is quintessential of Dior’s aesthetic under artistic director Kim Jones – but ultimately, this is complete set of understated, timeless tailoring. It’s alarmingly comprehensive, with every shape and colour you need for any eventuality.

Right now, a suit needs to be smart but unfussy, comfortable, and easy to merge into an existing (and likely casual) wardrobe. It needs to make you feel good; stand tall, without making you feel overdressed. The Modern Tailoring collection offers all of the above with aplomb. But beyond the obvious and gleefully pared-back usefulness of the collection, the capsule illustrates Dior’s adaptability, and demonstrates how the maison is a leading light in post-pandemic luxury. The market still wants beautiful, special things, but brands need to read the room and accept that tastes and requirements have shifted. With this natty triumvirate, Dior has done just that.

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