Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri often finds inspiration in folklore, but for autumn/winter 21 her fantasy predilections took a decidedly darker turn. The show, filmed at the imposing Hall of Mirrors at the palace of Versailles, told a haunting fairytale – an ode to the beguiling fables written by France’s female authors in the 1600s, when the palace was built.
To Peter Philips, creative and image director for Dior Makeup, disturbing beauty means a smoky eye – but with a twist.
"I emphasised the eyes by creating a variation on an intense smoky eye, brightened by blending out the eyeshadow. I wanted the eyes to be dark and poetic, in harmony with the mysterious fairytale atmosphere of this collection, spectacularly presented in Chateau de Versailles,” he said.
To create the “intense” look, Philips first prepped the skin with the brand’s Capture Totale skincare, before blending in the Backstage Face & Body Primer 001 Universal, which “blurs any flaws and ensures perfect hold for the Face & Body Foundation.” The Flash Luminizer and a dusting of the radiance-enhancing Backstage Face & Body Powder-No-Powder set the base.
To create that scene-stealing eye, Philips began by circling the entire eye with a dark, matte line, using Diorshow 24HR Stylo in Matte Black. “Then, I applied Diorshow Mono Couleur Couture in Black Bow heavily at the inner and outer corners of the eyes. The centre of the lid was left bare, creating “a really pictorial effect that avoids a heavy, overly ‘made-up’ effect.”
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