Is the ’diamond’ the most flattering haircut ever? 💇♀️
In all my years on Earth, I’ve only really ever had one haircut – a trim at each cut, with any dry ends being snipped off, and the occasional very long layer. Never anything particularly exciting (except the one time I tried a fringe, but we don’t talk about that). I’ve become comfortable with my long blonde locks and, although I love the look of blunt bobs and the texture of short layers, I’ve never seen a celeb hairstyle or viral trend that I thought would suit me – that was, until I spotted the ‘diamond’ concept haircut.
Dubbed a hairdresser’s industry secret, the diamond concept haircut is not something I’d heard about before, in my nearly decade-long career as a beauty journalist. But thanks to a viral TikTok video from leading hair stylist and trend forecaster Tom Smith, its name is springing up everywhere.
In Tom’s video, he discusses ‘why everyone is obsessed’ with Sabrina Carpenter’s bombshell blonde tresses, touching on how the style incorporates harmonious angles of the face. By 20 seconds in, I was sold – this was going to be the cut to disrupt my history of boring trims.
What is the diamond concept haircut?
The diamond concept is a way of cutting hair to create the illusion of a diamond face shape rather than a round or square face, says Tom. ‘High cheekbones and a balanced, narrower forehead and chin create a harmonious and feminine face shape. By cutting the hair in such a way to contour and shadow the corners, it allows the light to hit the face in more of a diamond pattern.’
We’re all aware of the effects of ageing, where the fat pads in our faces begin to drop, and Tom explains that this causes a squaring of the face over time. In order to look more youthful and feminine, it’s desirable to have more volume in the cheekbones, rather than at the corners of the jaw, and Tom says that ‘the diamond hair concept theory is about encouraging a square or round face to look more contoured and typically “beautiful”.’
Although Sabrina may have caused the style to rocket, it’s certainly not a new trend. The likes of Jane Fonda, Joanna Lumley and Monica Belucci all rock the look, along with Zooey Deschanel and Daisy Edgar-Jones in more recent years.
Face shape matters
Celebrated hairstylist and salon owner Larry King explains that we should think about our face shape in two ways – the length and the width. ‘To measure the length, we look from the hairline to the top of the chin, and for the width we look at three different areas – recession to recession (each side of the hairline), across the cheeks and, finally, across the jaw line.’
‘The diamond haircut works well around the front, as you elongate the length of the face as you expose the hairline and the chin. However, by creating movement just above the cheekbones, you also create width across the cheek area,’ Larry explains.
Will it suit me?
In my late 20s now, I’ve quickly caught up to that age where you wish you’d started using anti-ageing potions a little earlier, and I’m beginning to notice my face looks a little less sculpted. On hearing Tom say that the cut could make the face look ‘more balanced and elevated’, I was hopeful that after a visit to the salon, I’d be feeling more youthful and feminine.
The cut can suit almost everyone, as it can be adapted to suit your face shape and lifestyle. Although, ‘those with very small or narrow foreheads may prefer to avoid cutting the hair in this area shorter, and instead may opt to style the hair in such a way to achieve that angled diamond silhouette,’ says Tom.
But I don't want a fringe!
One thing I was sure about was that I wasn’t quite ready to cut in a big, bouncy fringe, and I was concerned that I wouldn’t be able to get the diamond concept cut without big shaping in that area. Luckily, Tom says it’s not a must – phew!
‘The more diamond contouring that’s required, the more a fringe may help, but creating a bend or flick in the parts of your hair that frame your face will help to create a similar illusion,’ he explains.
I tried the style out myself
With this job, I’ve been lucky to have my makeup applied by big industry names, visited facialists to the stars and had my cuticles trimmed to within an inch of their lives. But one of my favourite things to do? It has to be a trip to the hairdresser – hours of self-care with hot chocolates on tap, my favourite magazines to flick through and the advice of a stylist who just gets me – so I was ecstatic to visit the new Larry King salon in Marylebone, which opened its doors in December 2024.
With their tailored approach to hairdressing, Larry’s team were a fantastic fit for trying out this new do. Whether it’s a sharp cut or a more flexible style, the Larry King team use their expertise to deliver hair that works seamlessly for clients’ lifestyles.
After stepping into the glistening new Marylebone salon, I was seated at the sociable workstation, which marries vintage character with the salon’s contemporary aesthetic, and greeted by the lovely Dean. We discussed the condition and texture of my hair, and how I like to keep the colour low maintenance with well blended, creamy highlights. In an ode to Sabrina’s style, the aim was to go a bit blonder at this appointment, and Dean began with a totally personalised plan of hand-painted balayage – a trick he’s become rather well known for.
As my colour was getting to work, my stylist, the incredibly talented Steve, headed over for a chat. Immediately at ease thanks to Steve’s calming and cool presence, I had no regrets that I was about to snip much more shape into my hair than I was used to. Knowing that we were going for the diamond concept cut, Steve proposed a cut that was low effort, and personalised to my face shape and hair colour – cool girl vibes. This cut would enhance the colours that Dean had placed through my hair, and be less heavy on the bangs, while remaining true to the diamond concept cut.
Steve sectioned my hair off in a diamond fashion, being super precise with my parting (never easy, with my cowlick), and finely cut small sections with more textured ends to add plenty of bounce to my hair. Going in over the lengths, we decided on long layers that would further accentuate the diamond cut concept, and provide a bit more texture.
It’s all in the styling
Cut and colour complete, my hair was now ready to be styled. And with a cut like this – with layers, texture and face-framing bangs to contend with – drying, styling and products make a big difference.
Steve dried my hair with a pump of Larry King My Nanna’s Mousse, £22 and the new Dyson Supersonic Nural™ Hair Dryer, £329.99, before styling with a round brush. To finish off, he used Larry’s own satin finishing cream, Larry King A Social Life For Your Hair, £29.
A look in the mirror and I was in love – this was my take on Sabrina Carpenter’s bouncy locks, with a more maintainable, natural colour, and a cut that feels lived in and like it belongs to me.
Although the cut isn’t identical to Sabrina’s, it’s important to note that the diamond concept haircut is all about framing your face in the best possible way, and adapting the cutting style to suit you – so don’t let a full fringe put you off. My face feels lifted, and less long thanks to a little shaping, with the layers allowing me to add in a bit more bounce. If I can say so myself, I’m certainly feeling more beautiful.
My Nanna's Mousse
Dyson Supersonic Nural™ Hair Dryer
A Social Life For Your Hair
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