Decadent dining at Gizzi Erskine’s West End pop-up

Brooke Theis
Photo credit: Courtesy of The Nitery

From Town & Country

The food writer and chef Gizzi Erskine is gracing the West End for three months with her spectacular pop-up, the Nitery. Set within St Martin’s Lane Hotel, the menu magnificently blends French, British and American cuisines to create a tantalising offering of unique dishes.

Photo credit: Courtesy of the Nitery

Occupying the former home of Asia de Cuba, the innovative dining experience is perfectly set for a delectable pre- or post-show meal. Erskine’s menu is an excitingly experimental take on classic dishes; starters include a revamped steak tartare, served with beef dripping atop marmite brioche with a cured egg yolk, a perfect prawn cocktail, hot and garlicky dived scallops and a porcini parfait, which includes mushroom carpaccio and sweet cracked chestnut choux.

Photo credit: Courtesy of The Nitery

Oysters with a yuzu kosho mignonette make the perfect interim dish, before the main event: exquisitely roasted chicken with bread sauce and crispy fries; lobster with green garlic butter; and burnt-butter skate wing. It also includes a burger to rival all others, with a dry-aged cheese-covered patty wedged within in a toasted milk bun.

Dessert is a must; try to save room for the meringue-topped rhubarb and blood orange Queen of Puddings; the tangy apple tarte tatin; or Erskine’s playful take on a crêpe suzette, using the flavours of a Negroni cocktail.

Photo credit: Courtesy of the Nitery

As the restaurant’s name might lead you to deduce, the decor has been designed to conjure the atmosphere of the glamorous Parisian nightlife of early-20th-century ‘niteries’, with sultry midnight blue walls and large canvases, including those by Paige Perkins, David Remfry and Noel Fielding. It is the ideal place to while away an evening, even just to sip a glass of wine or two from the biodynamic-focused selection.

Photo credit: David M. Benett

But it is in her imaginative and delightfully hedonistic menu that Erskine has created a bon-vivant world at the Nitery. Each of its dishes is so tempting that you will be drawn back time and again to try another.

The Nitery by Gizzi Erskine is at St Martin’s Lane Hotel until 30 April.