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Chardonnay and secret streets on a captivating cruise along the Rhône

Sara Macefield and her friend Pip found relaxation on the Rhone - GREGORY DUBUS (GREGORY DUBUS (Photographer) - [None]
Sara Macefield and her friend Pip found relaxation on the Rhone - GREGORY DUBUS (GREGORY DUBUS (Photographer) - [None]

I was banking on blissful weather and smooth sailing, along with a healthy dose of Provencal charm, to ensure that my first river cruise with my bestie, Pip, didn’t sink our friendship. After all, we’d known each other for decades and the prospect of exploring the infinite delights of southern France in leisurely fashion, with a liberal injection of shopping en route and without my teenagers to disturb, was irresistible. 

The beauty of cruising along the Rhône on this Emerald Waterways’ voyage from Arles to Lyon was that Pip and I could simply go with the flow and enjoy the journey as much as the destinations. We didn’t need to worry about getting from place to place or organising where to stay – our comfortable floating hotel Emerald Liberté saw to that.

It didn’t take long. Pip, a keen swimmer, was soon bobbing in the enclosed onboard pool while I admired the views through the floor-to-ceiling windows and retractable roof.

Mealtimes were similarly relaxing, especially as we bagged a table for two by the window, allowing for prime riverside views as we enjoyed four-course dinners of delicately flavoured pâtés, tasty risottos and treats including duet of duck.

We often got chatting to neighbours on nearby tables; a couple from Seattle and two friends from Vancouver on a tour of Europe. The relaxed atmosphere was a bonus and it was easy to dip in and out, depending how sociable we felt.

Pont D'Avignon - Credit: Getty
Pont D'Avignon Credit: Getty

Sometimes we would peel away after dinner and retreat to the pool area, which some evenings transformed into a cinema by way of a hydraulic floor. As the pool base rose to floor level the water drained away underneath. 

We spent several evenings here, watching feel-good movies with complimentary popcorn and accompanying glasses of fizz, before retiring to our cabin. Contemporary and with a floor-to-ceiling window that opened halfway to become a French balcony, it was very cosy, though its compact size meant the ensuite shower and loo were uncomfortably adjacent to one of the beds, with just a sliding door and a few centimetres in-between. A bit too close for comfort, even for longstanding friends.

Yet this Gallic sojourn had started on a high amid the medieval splendour of Avignon as we explored streets with shops overflowing with Provencal treats; lavender pouches, deliciously scented soaps and pretty table linens. Our arrival in Tournon-sur-Rhone continued the feel-good factor as we strolled along cobbled streets before catching a small “train” into the vine-covered hills to admire the views.

It was plain sailing so far, but rising water levels soon stopped us in our tracks as a low bridge in Lyon prevented Emerald Liberté from heading north on the Saone River into Burgundy. So Lyon was where we stayed. France’s third-largest city was the perfect place to be “stranded”. Planned visits to Mâcon (where some of Burgundy’s top chardonnays are produced) and Beaune went ahead by coach as a well-oiled plan B swung into action.

It was a decent compromise and a walking tour gave us a fleeting flavour of Mâcon.

When we learned that the following day’s trip to Beaune involved a four-hour round-trip coach ride, Pip and I bailed out, opting to explore Lyon instead. 

Amid torrential rain, we armed ourselves with outsize umbrellas and headed to the shopping district where we spent a fun day splurging our credit cards. 

More downpours the next day made the ship’s guided tour of Lyon more problematic, but the skies cleared as we reached the captivating Old Town.

Lyon - Credit: GETTY
Lyon Credit: GETTY

Here we ventured into a maze of secret, internal passageways known as traboules – a means of escape to the Saone in the Middle Ages. They also proved useful for the Lyon operatives of the French Resistance during World War Two. There are 40 of them to explore, each unique. After an hour we broke away from the main group, stopping at a street cafe for an al fresco lunch before meandering back to the ship for the final night’s gala dinner.

Mother Nature may have done her best to scupper this sailing, but she certainly didn’t rain on our parade.

A seven-night Sensations of Lyon and Provence cruise between Arles and Lyon costs from £1,495pp including excursions. Departs between April and October (0808 301 3122; emeraldwaterways.co.uk).