A captivating coastal town where memories of Napoleon still linger – an expert guide to Ajaccio

Why go?

Lucky Napoleon, who was born in Ajaccio in 1769, for his hometown is delightful, framed by low hills and sandy beaches, graced with a picture-perfect harbour, and full of quaint squares and streets dotted with tempting sights, shops and restaurants. Charming and easy-going, it mingles hints of Italy – the Genovese having ruled Corsica for four centuries – with a dash of France and plenty of the island’s own appealing flavour.

Cruise port location

The port of Ajaccio has several piers, jetties and marinas for yachts, cruise ships and a variety of ferry companies. Most cruise ships dock at the Gare Maritime on Quai L’Herminier, which is around 330 yards (300m) north of the tourist office and Place Foch, Ajaccio’s main square. Tenders to the dock may be necessary on busy days or from the largest cruise ships.

Can I walk to any places of interest?

It is three minutes’ walk from the cruise dock to the main square and tourist office (see above) – follow Quai L’Herminier and then Quai de la Republique south (left as you face inland).  It is a couple of minutes farther south to the older part of town clustered around the Cittadelle. You can also walk south from here for a couple of minutes to reach the town’s sandy beach, Plage de Saint-François.

Getting around

Getting around is straightforward, with Ajaccio itself easily explored on foot. Join an excursion (see below) or use a private taxi for trips further afield, notably to experience the dramatic landscapes of the interior. The bus network is good but of limited use except to travel along the coast. A better option for exploring under your steam and to see the scenery is the two-hour train ride from Ajaccio all or part way to Corse at the heart of the island.

What to see and do

On a shorter stay, explore Ajaccio’s streets, cathedral, museums and the sights associated with Napoleon, perhaps with a hour or so on the beach, but be warned the town can become very crowded at busy times. On longer stopovers aim to see some of the glorious scenery of the Corsican interior, take a boat trip, nature or flightseeing tours, or hike a wonderful coastal path close to town (see below).

What can I do in four hours or less?

Private and group walking tours of Ajaccio are widely available, including several organised by the tourist office from as little €5 (£4) per person for the one-hour “Essential Ajaccio” group tour.

That said, it’s easy to explore under your own steam. It’s fun simply to wander the streets, but aim to see the superb Palais Fesch-Musée des Beaux-Arts, which contains France’s largest collection of Italian paintings outside the Louvre, including works by Titian, Botticelli, Veronese and other masters. Also see the prettily situated Cathédrale Ste-Marie, Napoloeon’s birthplace at Maison Napoleon, now a museum, and the Chapelle Impériale opposite Palais Fesch, which contains the tombs of Napoleon’s parents and other relatives.

If you aim to spend a good deal of time on the beach, then pass up the town beach (see above) in favour of the better Plage Porticcio, which can be reached by taxi or – more fun – on a 20-minute ferry service from the southern end of the harbour; journey time is 20 minutes.

Or be more active and sign up for water-based excursions such as diving, snorkelling, sea kayaking, sailing and jet-skiing.

For a quick taste of the coast and scenery close to town, jump aboard the yellow hop-on, hop-off Ajaccio Vision open-top double-decker buses (90- and 55-minute tours at €10/£8 and €8/£7).

What can I do in eight hours or less?

Unless you settle in for a long lunch and an afternoon on the beach, there’s not enough to keep you busy in town all day. If you want to be active on land, then consider the lovely Sentier des Douaniers coastal walking trail: you’ll need a bus or taxi to get to and from the trailhead; set off early in summer to avoid the heat.

Alternatively, take the train (see above) or join a guided excursion to the mountains of the interior, either as a coach passenger to one of several canyons, notably the Prunelli Gorges (be prepared for winding roads), an e-bike rider or as an active participant in rafting or canyoning. Most cruise companies use the same operators for their activity excursions if you want to browse and book you own tours: Couleur Corse and Terra Corsa.

Eat and drink

Italy’s long presence in Corsica has flavoured its cooking, so you’ll find Italian dishes mixed with the region’s classic fish and seafood – notably red mullet (rouget) and sea bream (loup de mer) – and the more obviously French dishes on local menus. Pork has long been a staple – expect lots of hams, salamis, stews and sausages – along with mountain cheeses such as brocciu. Explore the wine, too, which is little known outside the island, with vermentino and nielluccio two of the more interesting grape varieties.

Don’t get back on the ship without…

Prices on goods which have to be imported to the island are high, so stick to local products, notably soaps, perfumes and other toiletries made from the herbs and flowers of the island’s rural interior, or the many jams, mountain cheeses, oils, tapenades and other gastronomic products. Ajaccio is especially known for its honey and for its red coral jewellery. Chestnut-based foodstuffs – once a staple – are also widely available, as are crafts such traditional images formed from pebbles or wood.

Need to know

Safety and crime

Ajaccio is generally safe, but, as ever, be on the lookout for pickpockets in markets and other crowded areas.

Best time to go

August is the warmest and busiest month, and a popular time for Italians and French mainlanders to visit the island. Spring – late April to early June – is delightful, especially if you visit the countryside.

Closures

Some smaller shops and businesses may follow traditional French closing times, which means a two-hour lunch break from 12.30pm or 1pm, but most stores stay open in areas of town frequented by visitors. Many shops close all day Monday or Monday morning. Museums, too, often close on Mondays and many activity tour operators only operate from June or July to September.