California dreamin’: why Los Angeles is back and better than ever
Since US borders reopened, British travellers have been heading back to California in search of winter sun and a much-missed dose of West Coast glamour.
LA is thriving in spite of the pandemic, with a host of hot hotels, highly delicious restaurants and intriguing new attractions launching since Brits were last allowed to visit. Here are our favourites.
Where to eat
Acclaimed chef Enrique Olvera’s newest dining destination is the Art District’s Damian, which uses local Californian produce to create impeccable modern Mexican fusion food like mushroom, gruyere and truffle quesadilla and delicious duck al pastor alongside a drinks menu that’s heavy with small batch mezcal.
You’d assume that vintage-looking French restaurant Gigi’s had been around since the golden age of Hollywood, but it’s very much a new Hollywood creation: make like Marilyn Monroe and splash out on a seafood tower from the raw bar accompanied by a martini. West Hollywood bistro Horses has taken over British boozer The Pikey to serve Italian specialties like tagliarini with clams and gorgonzola cappelletti while Clark Street Diner is another former LA fave turned new gen hotspot; the much-loved 101 Coffee Shop is now a retro cafe stocked with comfort classics.
Hit up Ospi on Venice Beach for decadent breakfast pizza with bacon, egg and rosemary. Vegans are always well catered for in Cali and soul food pop-up VTree now has a permanent location in Silver Lake with popular plant-based takes on meatloaf, mac’n’cheese and jambalaya.
For a fast sugar fix, Creamo is a new ice-cream parlour from LA’s punk rock dessert squad Donut Friend, offering dairy-free sundaes named after bands like X Ray Spex and Paramore.
Where to drink
Nowhere does a rooftop bar quite like Hollywood. The latest and greatest addition to the sky-high cocktail quaffing scene is Desert 5 Spot, a straight out of Joshua Tree tequila den with 360-degree views of the city and in-house honky tonk band playing cosmic country music.
Bar Lis offers similar views but with a look fresh from the French Riviera complete with summer-y spritzes and a lavish vodka concoction named after Jane Birkin. If you’re after natural wine and carefully curated cheese boards then try the rather more minimal Only The Wild Ones on Venice Beach’s slickest strip, Abbot Kinney.
Where to visit
The first ever public collection of official Oscars movie memorabilia, The Academy Museum of Motion Pictures, finally opened in October after years of planning. As well as being home to Dorothy’s ruby slippers, Citizen Kane’s Rosebud sled and ET themself, it faces the industry’s more problematic moments head on, highlighting marginalised talent such as unsung African American filmmaker Oscar Micheaux and giving space to the #MeToo movement. A very modern museum and all the better for it.
Cinema buffs will also be in their element at NeueHouse Bradbury, an elegant co-working space in the iconic Art Deco Bradbury Building, best known for its starring role in Blade Runner. If you’ve ever wanted to check your email while pretending to be Harrison Ford, here’s your chance. Don’t miss its adjacent cocktail bar, the gorgeous Wyman.
Over in Fairfax creative collective Brain Dead Studios screen cult and classic films at their new cinema, where you’ll also find the laidback Slammers cafe as well as regular vintage clothing and vinyl fairs. Talking of vinyl, panic ripped through LA’s crate-digging community when iconic independent record store Amoeba Music closed last year. Happily it recently returned, setting up shop in a humongous new Hollywood location.
Where to stay
In the very heart of Hollywood, luxury boutique hotel The Thompson has classy mid century modern design features, drool-worthy terrazzo floors throughout and goodies from exclusive Brooklyn perfume house DS & Durga in every bathroom. Its younger, more budget-friendly sister property Tommie opened earlier this month and boasts one of LA’s dreamiest outdoor patios in the shape of Yucatánean restaurant Ka’teen. Headed up by superstar chef and Guerrilla Tacos founder Wes Avila, order scallop ceviche tostadas and lamb neck barbacoa with carrot habanero salsa.
In historic West Adams – one of LA’s oldest neighbourhoods – there’s the artsy but cosy Alsace LA, with desert-inspired landscaping, sleek rattan furniture and carefully curated pieces from local artists. Pick up coffee and breakfast pastries from nearby Tartine, the newest branch of the storied California bakery.
Discover your zen at East Hollywood’s Cara, a converted 1950s motel and Insta-perfect ‘healing hotel’ that feels like a listing from The Modern House; all bright, light interiors, herringbone floors, olive trees, limestone bathrooms and a chill courtyard complete with reflecting pool.
A special mention goes to the impossibly hip Gold-Diggers, a bohemian boutique hotel and gig venue which was Guns N’ Roses’ former rehearsal space. Rooms are way more chic than you’d expect from a one-time bikini bar and come stocked with a record player and specially selected vinyl. Think it can’t get any cooler? Soul singer Leon Bridges’ recent Grammy-nominated album, Gold-Diggers Sound, was recorded in the on-site studio.
