Buzios, Brazil guide: where to stay, where to eat and how to get there
There's no doubt Brazil's Rio de Janeiro has some of the world's most iconic beaches in the world. But that also means they're some of the busiest. Nearby Buzios is just a 2-3 hour drive down the coast, but could be a different continent.
The lazy fishing village vibe of central Buzios feels more like St. Tropez or Capri than Brazil, while the rugged Praia Brava could be anywhere from New Zealand to Ibiza, depending on the beach tribe you choose. When you're tired of Rio's hustle-and-bustle, Buzios is the answer.
Where we stayed
The entrance to Casas Brancas is almost so stunning I don't want to spoil it for you. Tucked away on a back street, you'll enter the hotel via its cobbled driveway, heading into the dream-like lobby, which is all neutrals, woods, whites and flowing fabrics. Then you'll head up into the lounge area, where you're met with floor-to-ceiling doors opening out onto the wooden-decked pool area, which sits on a huge balcony overlooking the harbour. Sea, little fishing boats, colourful wildflowers and total silence. Bliss.
A post shared by Casas Brancas Boutique Hotel (@casas_brancas_hotel) on Nov 27, 2019 at 5:10am PST
The rooms are similarly stunning, with cosy-yet-modern neutral decor. Our room even boasted a patio area with a little plunge pool, and a window-seat-style padded day-bed - except instead of a window, your view is just open air and sea as far as the eye can see. Central Buzios is just a couple of minutes stroll away along the harbour-front, where you'll find bars, shops and cute little restaurants and bistros.
One of the hotel highlights is the breakfast, which manages to feel luxurious and indulgent, whilst also being fresh, healthy and homemade, using seasonal ingredients from their own organic garden. From banana pancakes to juices, freshly-baked pastries and homemade yoghurt and granola bars, you'll feel smug AND satisfied.
A post shared by Casas Brancas Boutique Hotel (@casas_brancas_hotel) on Nov 11, 2019 at 11:21am PST
Rooms start from £140 per night in low season, up to £240 per room per night in the peaks of high season.
Where we ate
There's plenty of choice when it comes to good food in Buzios, and almost everywhere is within walking distance. Casas Brancas' own restaurant, 74, has stunning views overlooking the bay and equally stunning food. They use fresh local products, and you can get a three course dinner, with lobster, for well under £35.
A post shared by 74 Restaurant (@74restaurant) on Nov 18, 2019 at 9:30am PST
Mistico Restaurant, at neighbouring hotel Abracadabra, is also highly recommended. Great food, great cocktails, great value and another great sunset view overlooking the bay. We had a delicious prawn coconut curry and if you're a mushroom fan, you have to get the pasta.
Across on the other side of the coast, around a 5 minute drive away, is Rocka Beach Lounge. A chilled-out Ibiza beach club vibe, meets some fo the best food in Buzios. You can book a table, or a lounger (which we'd recommend), where you can sunbathe and have your food and drink served on little tray tables.
A post shared by Rocka Restaurant (@rocka_buzios) on Sep 14, 2019 at 9:19am PDT
The ceviche is DELICIOUS, but save room for pudding, because the white Belgian chocolate soup (essentially a posh Milkybar dessert) with passion fruit syrup and ice-cream is legit one of the best things I've eaten in my life. There aren't many places you get a view this good, for free, eating food this delicious, at such cheap prices.
For even cheaper eats, Bar do Zé, which is nestled away along the seafront on the walk between central Buzios and Casas Brancas, is a great shout. Simple Italian and seafood dishes, a cosy candlelit atmosphere, with the sound of waves lapping the shore.
FYI
The drive between Rio and Buzios can take anywhere between 2 and a half to three and a half hours depending on traffic... and how much your driver likes to speed. An Uber will cost between £60-70 each way, with a more boujee hotel transfer costing around £150.
A lot of places are closed on Sundays and Mondays, so make sure you check ahead.
You can walk around much of Buzios, as it's pretty compact. But for longer journeys, Uber is the easiest way to get around and will only cost a couple of pounds at most for a drive across Buzios.
Like Rio, you can live like royalty for next-to-nothing. We didn't spend more than £40 per person for even our fanciest meals, which included three courses of truly fantastic top-quality food and wine, and the tip. You can easily eat meals that would cost well over £100 in the UK for £20-30.
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