Burberry Fall 2025: Outerwear, Everywhere
The knight in head-to-toe armor, shining along with the stars in Burberry’s front row, said it all: Burberry is about statement outerwear.
Daniel Lee’s collection was an exercise in focus and restraint. The bright colors, floaty fabrics and animal patterns of seasons past were replaced by an army of trenches, greatcoats, rain capes with fur-lined hoods, and hefty fringed scarves, all done in an earthy palette of dark brown, green and burgundy.
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Even the clothing underneath them was sturdy, warming — and uncomplicated.
A mix of models and British actors, including Richard E. Grant, who stars in Burberry’s latest campaign; Lesley Manville and Jason Isaacs (of “White Lotus” and “Harry Potter” fame) strode down the runway at Tate Britain, looking confident in corduroy trousers, jodhpurs and tartan trousers with long kilts buckled to the front.
They clutched umbrellas, or carried weekend bags covered in Burberry checks, and wore flat leather riding boots, or extra-warming ones that reached past the thighs.
Since he joined as chief executive, Joshua Schulman has said repeatedly that Burberry’s focus should be on outerwear — and the check — and Daniel Lee clearly got the memo.
The designer said his inspiration came from the British countryside, high society, period dramas and an “idealistic view of how the world sees the U.K.” He liked “Saltburn,” the 2023 film that featuring a wacky, bohemian family living in a grand and sinister stately home.
He drew inspiration from the interiors of those grand homes, studying their wallpaper and rich textiles. He also took long walks in the countryside of his native Yorkshire, turning all the wintry color into distressed leather trenches and jackets, some with delicately embroidered capes at the back; fur-lined bombers, and belted poncho raincoats.
“Burberry is a brand that’s made for being on the go, being in motion, and in movement, outside and in all different types of weather and terrain,” said Lee, who also riffed on the Burberry scarf, too, supersizing it and adding a chunky fringe.
Other styles had a bohemian edge, including a winter white cape covered in a curlicue fringe like a sheep’s coat. Another long coat was covered in a blue pattern swiped from the wallpaper, or the cushions from an aristocratic home.
When those coats, capes and trenches came off, they revealed clothes that were just as warming and protective — ribbed knit skirts and matching tops, a lineup of velvet damask suits and dresses with ruffled sleeves, loose and flowing as Victorian nightshirts.
It was a handsome collection, and commercial, too, proving that Lee can work to a specific brief. Will it satisfy him in the long run? He seems to think so.
Asked about his future at Burberry, the designer said, “I love the brand. It’s an incredible brand and it’s really an honor to work for Burberry. Josh has been here just over six months now, and things are going well. They’re definitely improving, and I think we’re in a really positive place.”
Just like the doughty knight from the front row (and the latest ad campaign), Lee is charging ahead, leading Burberry into the future.
Launch Gallery: Burberry Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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