48 hours in . . . Las Vegas, an insider guide to Sin City
An oasis of glittering lights in the desert
You'll spot it from far away, if you were clever enough to ask for a window seat on the plane. It's Sin City – an oasis of glittering lights in the desert, home of the Strip and the drive-in wedding chapel, playground of the Mob, and a visual spectacle complete with its own Eiffel Tower, Egyptian pyramids, and Venetian canals. Welcome to Las Vegas. It's a place that's defined as much by vintage camp as by futuristic innovation, where the classic steakhouses and 24-hour casinos exist alongside world-class dining, sleek hotels, and thrilling entertainment from the acrobatic stylings of Cirque du Soleil to the High Roller, a massive observation wheel. Sin City nightlife is legendary, whether you're moving to the rhythm of DJ-spun beats on a dance floor lined with gold or standing on an open-air terrace, drink in hand, taking in the sweeping views of neon-lit resorts and casinos below. This is Vegas, baby.
Hot right now . . .
Bridget Gleeson, our resident expert, offers her top tips on the hottest tickets to book and places to eat and drink this season.
Eat
Celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay has brought the world's first Hell's Kitchen restaurant (3570 Las Vegas Boulevard South; 00 1 702 730 7777) – inspired by his reality television show of the same name – to Vegas diners. Some tables offer great views over the Strip.
• The best restaurants in Las Vegas
Book now
Lady Gaga began her two-year Las Vegas residency on December 28, 2018 at the Park Theater at MGM Park (3770 Las Vegas Boulevard South; 00 1 844 600 7275). Choose between the 'Enigma' or 'Jazz & Piano' shows; the former will showcase her pop hits in all their glory, and the latter will focus on stripped-down versions.
There’s also a new high-flying act coming to town, all the way from Argentina. Fuerza Bruta, an interactive, hipster-friendly spectacle without seats or a stage, starts a six-month run at Excalibur (3850 S Las Vegas Boulevard; 00 1 702 597 7600) in March.
• The best things to do in Las Vegas
48 hours in . . . Las Vegas
Day one
Morning
Just arrived in Sin City? There's no better place to start than with a photo op beside a retro landmark: the "Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas, Nevada" sign. If you're taking a taxi into town from the airport, you'll spot it as you enter the southern end of the Strip, just south of Mandalay Bay. You'll know where to pull over, there's always a crowd of cars and a constant flash of cameras.
Then continue north along the Strip and enjoy the replicas of famous buildings from the car window: the Empire State Building and the Luxor pyramid on your left, and the faux Eiffel Tower on your right. Say goodbye to your taxi driver at the Bellagio (3600 Las Vegas Boulevard South; 00 1 702 693 7111) and head straight for the jaw-dropping floral displays at the Bellagio Conservatory & Botanical Garden. The exhibition changes four times a year – in spring, summer, fall, and winter – with themes such as Under the Sea and Japanese Spring.
• The best restaurants in Las Vegas
Afternoon
If you're in the mood for an elegant lunch, head to the Venetian for a Parisian-style meal at Bouchon (3355 Las Vegas Boulevard South; 00 1 702 414 6200), where specialties include steamed mussels, freshly baked baguettes and oysters. Afterwards, go for a gondola ride along the resort's man-made canals (3355 Las Vegas Boulevard South; 00 1 877 691 1997). Whether you choose an indoor or outdoor ride, your gondolier will play his part, serenading you as you float under bridges and past canalside cafés.
If you'd rather shop, grab a quick lunch at one of the casual eateries inside The Shops at Crystals (3720 Las Vegas Boulevard South; 00 1 702 590 9202), the futuristic shopping mall at CityCenter. This eco-friendly space is as famous for its water installations and lush indoor foliage as for its high-end boutiques. Or hit up the hipster-friendly Cosmopolitan (3708 Las Vegas Boulevard South) for gourmet tacos, great coffee places, and shops catering to stylish millennials.
Ready for your first drink in Vegas? Make it a classy one: the Chandelier Bar (Level 1 Boulevard Tower; 00 1 702 698 7575), which 'hangs' in the centre of the Cosmopolitan, is the perfect spot to make a toast.
• The best nightlife in Las Vegas
LATE
At sunset, you'll want to be onboard the High Roller observation wheel – it's taller than the London Eye, and the 30-minute ride offers unbeatable views over the glittering Strip and the desert beyond (3535 Las Vegas Boulevard South; 00 1 702 322 0593). Afterwards, enjoy a quick viewing of the famous fountain show outside the Bellagio from the sidewalk, or from the vantage point of HYDE cocktail lounge inside the resort (3600 Las Vegas Boulevard South; 00 1 702 693 8700).
Then have dinner at Sage (3730 Las Vegas Boulevard South; 00 1 702 590 8690), the modern farm-to-table restaurant at Aria, before catching a Cirque du Soleil (00 1 888 488 7111) show at one of the Strip's many specialised theatres. Opt for a classic show such as Mystère (at Treasure Island), or splash out on an aquatic show such as the legendary O (at the Bellagio).
Finish the night at one of Vegas' classic superclubs, such as posh XS at Encore (3131 South Las Vegas Boulevard; 00 1 702 770 0097), where the walls are lined with real gold, or the cool rooftop club Marquee, located at the Cosmopolitan (3708 South Las Vegas Boulevard; 00 1 702 333 9000).
Day two
Morning
Today's the day to enjoy the vintage charm of downtown Las Vegas. Start with a stroll down the neon-lit Fremont Street Experience (Fremont St.; 00 1 702 678 5600), a pedestrian-only promenade that's a 24/7 spectacle complete with a zip line, live entertainment, and vendors selling supersized cocktails. If you'd like to learn the basics of blackjack, now's a good time to stop into one of the neighbourhood's classic casinos for a free lesson.
Otherwise, spend a couple of hours at the mafia-themed Mob Museum (300 Stewart Ave.; 00 1 702 229 2734). Housed in a restored former courthouse that dates from 1933, it offers a fascinating overview of the city’s history of organized crime, and of the mafia’s role in developing casino-resorts as we know them today.
Afternoon
Have lunch at Pizza Rock (201 North Third St. at Downtown Grand; 00 1 702 385 0838), where the co-founder, Tony Gemignani, is a 12-time World Pizza Champion. Pizza purists should go for the Burratina di Margherita, a Sicilian-style pizza with Burrata cheese, cherry tomatoes, basil and balsamic reduction, or opt for something a little more avant garde such as the Cal Italia, with asiago, prosciutto, mozzarella, gorgonzola, fig preserve and balsamic reduction.
Then shop for mid-century Vegas décor and accessories atRetro Vegas (1131 South Main St.; 00 1 702 384 2700) before heading over to the Golden Nugget (129 East Fremont St.; 00 1 702 385 7111) hotel and casino to check out the shark tank, a 200,000-gallon, three-storey-tall aquarium filled with silvery swimming sharks. A one-of-a-kind tube waterslide cuts right through the tank – you have to be a hotel guest to try it, but buying a day pass (from $25/£19) is also an option.
As the sun goes down, stroll along the outdoor sections of the Neon Museum (00 1 702 387 6366) around Fremont Street, where retro signs – including vintage motel relics and a larger-than-life glittering martini glass – add a neon glow to the evening.
• The best free things to do in Vegas
LATE
Stop into Carson Kitchen (124 South 6th St.; 00 1 702 473 9523), an industrial-chic gastropub that's popular with locals, for dinner and drinks. Many plates are meant for sharing. Try the crispy chicken skins or barbecue burnt ends to start, then have a short rib grilled cheese on sourdough. Afterwards, stop for 1930s-inspired cocktails at Commonwealth(525 East Fremont St.; 00 1 702 445 6400), a Prohibition-style bar with a speakeasy section that's only available via text message reservation – check the website for details.
Finish with a show at Beauty Bar (517 Fremont St.; 00 1 702 598 3757), where the interior décor was sourced from a 1950s-era hair salon in New Jersey. The venue has indoor and outdoor stages and a rotating line-up of live music. It's a one-of-a-kind place to drink and dance with a local crowd.
Where to stay . . .
Luxury Living
As a guest at the Bellagio, you're not only located mid way along the Strip, you're also set back a tasteful distance from the tourist crowds. As well as the huge casino and array of shops, the hotel boasts perhaps the best selection of pools in the city, with indulgent cabana and day bed options aplenty. For entertainment and nightlife, the Cirque du Soleil show 'O' is based in the hotel's theatre and for an even higher brow experience, there's a wonderful gallery of fine art.
Doubles from $169 (£121). 3600 Las Vegas Boulevard South; 00 1 702 693 7444
Designer Digs
This is one of the glitziest of the Las Vegas hotels. The Cosmopolitan's cutting-edge interior design details stretch throughout the hotel, and each corner reveals another striking, illuminated staircase or interactive sculpture. Beyond the gaming floor, the upper floors of restaurants and shops also enjoy creative, whimsical layouts, with themed seating areas (such as Alice in Wonderland) and a litany of artistic visual distractions to discover.
Doubles from $117 (£85). 3708 Las Vegas Boulevard South; 00 1 702 698 7000
Budget Beauty
'Iconic' is an often-misused word but in the case of this sparkling, glittering throwback to the glory days of Las Vegas, it's entirely appropriate. From the name – Golden Nugget – blazed in a golden arch, to the (revamped but still) vintage interiors, there's much to love and cherish about the place. The most renowned amenities here is the pool – or pools – which boast a water slide through a shark tank aquarium.
Doubles from $49 (£35). 129 East Fremont St.; 00 1 702 385 7111)
What to bring home . . .
Pick up a quality deck of cards, dice, chips, a money wheel, or any kind of home gaming equipment at Gamblers General Store (800 South Main St.; 00 1 702 382 9903), a classic shop geared to serious players.
Cigars are hand-rolled every day at Las Vegas Cigar Company (2510 East Sunset Road Suite; 00 1 702 262 6100), a shop and cigar lounge where the house special is made with Cuban-seed tobacco imported from the Dominican Republic and Ecuador.
• The best shopping in Las Vegas
When to go . . .
Las Vegas is an anytime destination. Casino doors never shut, not even for Christmas. Spring and autumn are the most temperate times to visit. In summer, the heat and humidity can be oppressive, although it's also when Vegas' sexy pool season peaks. Winter weather is cold and rainy, but snow is rare except in the mountains outside the city. New Year's Eve is by far the biggest annual event, when room rates skyrocket and every hotel for miles around is booked out.
Know before you go . . .
Essential information
British Consulate-General, Los Angeles: 00 1 310 789 0031
Emergency services (ambulance, fire, police): Dial 911
Police (non-emergencies): Dial 311
Las Vegas Visitor Information Center: 3150 Paradise Rd, Las Vegas. 00 1 702 892 7575, 00 1 877 847 4858; lasvegas.com. Open Monday-Friday, 8am-5pm
Basics
Currency: US dollar
Telephone code: +1/00 1 (702)
Time difference: - 8
Flight times: London to Las Vegas is less than 11 hours
Local laws and etiquette
The legal age for drinking alcohol and gambling is 21. Carry photo ID with you as proof of age when visiting bars, nightclubs, liquor stores, etc. Anyone under 21 is not allowed inside casinos, although you won't likely be stopped just walking through.
You must be at least 18 years old to smoke or purchase tobacco. Smoking is prohibited at cinemas, shopping malls, indoor restaurants and some bars that serve food. Look for an ashtray before lighting up, or ask first if smoking is allowed.
Prostitution is illegal in Clark County, which includes the city of Las Vegas. Nevada's legal brothels are located in rural areas far outside the city.
Author bio
Bridget Gleeson has been in and out of Vegas many times, but it was when she rented a condo just off the Strip that she really got to know the city. She's particularly fond of Vegas for its vintage neon, classic cocktails and lazy rivers.
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