36 Hours In...Paphos

Steeped in ancient mythology, there’s no more evocative place to soak up the autumn sun than Cyprus’s richly romantic harbour town, says Fiona Hardcastle.

Why go now?

Cyprus is a land for romantics, dotted with castles, churches, monasteries, mosaics, white-sand beaches and the bluest of seas. Early suitors include Marc Antony, who thought the island so fragrant he gave it to Cleopatra, and Richard the Lionheart, who briefly put down his crossbow to marry there. But you can bet neither of these alpha males had the energy for anything in August, when  the heat is so paralysing you could be on Mars

Autumn is by far the best time to explore. Temperatures remain delightful through to December, with a daily average of 20C, even up until Christmas.

Undoubtedly, it is a sense of the familiar that also appeals. From driving on the left to the recognisable shop fronts – the pillar where St Paul was lashed for spreading Christianity is directly behind the Paphos branch of Debenhams – mean that many Brits (about 30,000 in this region alone) feel at home here. Three hundred days of sunshine a year also helps.

Getting there

Direct flights to Paphos take around three and a half hours. Carriers include British Airways (0844 493 0787; ba.com), easyJet (easyjet.com) and Thomson (thomson.co.uk). Return flights start at around £300.

Where to stay

Special treat 

Overlooking the fabled birthplace of the Greek goddess of love, the InterContinental Aphrodite Hills (3 Aphrodite Avenue Paphos 8509; 00357 26829617) is a sumptuous place to stay. Set on the cliffs outside Paphos, the resort is spread over 600 acres of protected forest and has been designed as a traditional Cypriot village, albeit with golf course, luxury spa and Annabel Croft tennis academy attached.

Sovereign Luxury Travel (0843 770 4526; sovereign.com) is offering one week in a junior suite for a family of three from £2,079, including return easyJet flights from London Gatwick, seven nights’ half board and private resort transfers, based on November 3 departures.

Mid-range 

Vasilias Nikoklis Inn (Nikolia 8505; 00357 26432211; info@nikoklis.com), again outside Paphos nestles in the foothills of the Troodos mountains. A family-run agritourism inn, it is surrounded by lemon and olive groves and full of rustic charm. Doubles from £58.

On a budget 

The views over the town and coast from Axiothea (Ivis Malioti 2, off Apostolou Pavlou, Ktima Paphos; 00357 26232866; axiotheahotel.com), a simple yet friendly two-star hotel set on the ancient acropolis of Moussalas Hill, are hard to beat. Doubles from £38.

For more accommodation options in Cyprus, go to telegraph.co.uk/cyprushotels, which offers a best-price guarantee.

On arrival

7pm

Acclimatise with sundowners at the stylish Carob Bar, in the Aphrodite Hills, followed by dinner at the Pithari Taverna, a family-friendly, atmospheric Greek restaurant, also on site. Local dishes range from baked feta with fresh mint in filo pastry to generous moussaka, which is both substantial and superb. Cost around €30/£25 per person for three courses, including wine.

Day one

9am

Head for the hills, resplendent in their autumn colours, and 10,000 years of history. Amid the cooling pine and cedar forests of the Troodos mountains are some of the most spectacular churches in the Mediterranean. Ten of them have been awarded World Heritage Status in recognition of their detailed and vibrant Byzantine frescoes.

The island’s own Mount Olympus, at almost 2,000m above sea level, provides an impressive focal point.

10am

Take your pick of secluded mountain villages – although if winding roads are turning faces grey, make Omodos  your first stop. Approximately 45 minutes’ drive from Paphos, it is a tidy, if touristy, spot, known for its wine, lace and carob bakeries. The church of the Holy Cross, which contains enough reliquaries for the keenest pilgrim, boasts the skull of St Philip.

Those with stronger constitutions should press on to Kakopetria, a further 30 minutes’ north, where time seems to stand still within its pretty narrow lanes. Again, don’t leave without a visit to the church – the Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis (two miles north-west of the village) is built in the shape of a cross and contains important wall paintings depicting seminal scenes from the New Testament dating from the 11th century.

1pm

Food for the soul only goes so far. Break for lunch at Yianni’s restaurant and wine bar in Omodos, where a traditional meze of 20 small dishes costs less than €20/£17 per person. If you ventured further north, the Argentinian steaks at tucked-away Tziellari’s in Kakopetria are well worth snuffling out. The homemade cheesecake comes highly recommended. Cost approximately €40/£34 for two including wine.

3pm

Head down the mountains, spotting moufflon (a wild sheep of which Cypriots are strangely proud) as you go. Although outside the official Paphos region, the ancient site of Kourion is worth the detour. Perched dramatically on a hillside overlooking the sea, this is one of the most important archaeological sites on the island. Its magnificent 2,000-seat amphitheatre is still used for summer productions.

6pm

A 30-minute drive westwards will bring you to Aphrodite’s Rock, a somewhat unassuming home for the island’s leading lady. It is particularly pretty at sunset.

8pm

Dinner at Leander Restaurant, Aphrodite Hills resort. A typical meal includes octopus, followed by roasted wild sea bass with artichoke fricassee. Finish with a mint vacherie, strawberry compote and chocolate Chantilly, for €55/£46 per person including wine.

Day two

9am

The ghostly atmosphere at Tombs of the Kings (open 8.30am-5pm daily; €1.70/£1.50), outside the northern walls of Paphos town, is best experienced early in the morning. Much of this fascinating necropolis, an imposing series of caves and soft sandstone tombs, dates back to the 4th century BC. It served as the final resting place not for royalty, as the name suggests, but local nobility. 

11am

Wind your way back down to Paphos harbour via the Kato Paphos Archaeological Park (daily April-Oct, 8am to 7.30pm, Nov-March 8am-5pm; €3.40/ £3), which houses the most impressive Roman mosaics in the eastern Mediterranean. The House of Dionysius contains some memorable mosaics, including a colourful series depicting the tragic consequences of early binge‑drinking.

1pm

Bag a table for lunch at seafood restaurant Theos in the harbour, where freshly caught fish is cooked to perfection. The meze of swordfish, calamari, whitebait and prawns is a little pricey at €22 a person, but the waterfront setting, in the shadow of the medieval castle, could not be lovelier.

Checklist

For official tourist information, go to visitpaphos.org.cy.

If driving, keep small euro-coins handy for metered street parking, or use municipally run lots – private spaces are exorbitantly 
priced.

The website cyprusevents.net is a good resource to see what’s going on.

For a complete and detailed guide to Cyprus go to telegraph.co.uk/cyprus