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The 24 best designer shows from Paris Fashion Week

Chanel model Paris Fashion Week lineup
Chanel models form a plaid parade at Paris Fashion Week.

Did Kim Kardashian forget to cut the tag off her black lace Balenciaga dress?

That was just one of the high-style questions that hung in the air during Paris Fashion Week, which was packed with stylish celebrities before wrapping up Tuesday. But it turns out it was all a branding stunt, orchestrated by creative director Demna, who’s known for sending up iconic luxury label references.

Those prestigious codes were referenced all over the runways of Paris Fashion Week, in forms both subtle and overt. At Chanel, creative director Virginie Viard sent out dozens of signature tweed suits, recognized the world over. In her third stint at Chloé and her first as creative director, Chemena Kamala presented belts that spelled out the company name in golden cursive. And Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière closed the week with an unforgettable show packed with countless monogram bags and minidresses printed like the house’s fabled trunks.

Grab a café and a croissant and scroll through the most elite looks.

CHANEL

With models like Gigi Hadid (center) rocking the runway, Chanel pulled off a classic collection with French influences. Images: Chanel
With models like Gigi Hadid (center) rocking the runway, Chanel pulled off a classic collection with French influences. Images: Chanel

Love, at least the cinematic kind, was in the air at Chanel. Virginie Viard aired a short film starring Brad Pitt and Penélope Cruz that paid tribute to Claude Lelouch’s “Un Homme et Une Femme” and Deauville, the French resort town where it’s set. Directed by Inez and Vinoodh, the homage features Chanel’s classic 11.12 chain bag — the same one a newly blond Cruz carried to the show, which she attended with Lelouch.

LOUIS VUITTON

LV played with classic monograms and fantastic furs for its Louvre-located show. Images: Getty Images
LV played with classic monograms and fantastic furs for its Louvre-located show. Images: Getty Images

Nicolas Ghesquière took over the Cour Carrée du Louvre, one of the most iconic locations in Paris, and dazzled guests — including Cate Blanchett, Sarah Paulson, Holland Taylor, Ava DuVernay and Jaden Smith — with a jaw-dropping fashion extravaganza. The gotta-get accessories (big furry mittens and a top-handle bag for nearly every outfit) accented the desirability of the idiosyncratic clothing.

CHLOÉ

Chloé’s Paris Fashion Week runway was silky and swashbuckling. Images: Getty Images
Chloé’s Paris Fashion Week runway was silky and swashbuckling. Images: Getty Images

Boho chic is back, judging by the rapturous reviews of Chemena Kamala’s first Chloé collection. Seventies supermodels Jerry Hall and Pat Cleveland — seated front row with their equally super daughters, Georgia May Jagger and Anna Cleveland — applauded the floaty lace dresses, ruffled blouses, fringed leathers and capes. Time to go with the flow.

STELLA MCCARTNEY

Runway royals Natalia Vodianova (center) and Lila Moss (right) were sustainable and sexy walking for Stella McCartney. Images: Getty Images
Runway royals Natalia Vodianova (center) and Lila Moss (right) were sustainable and sexy walking for Stella McCartney. Images: Getty Images

Stella McCartney began her runway ritual with a beseeching video message from Mother Earth read by actor Olivia Coleman, and closed it with a fluffy ivory coat enveloping supermodel and philanthropist Natalia Vodianova. In between, there were power suits, vegan leathers and statement pieces made with responsible or recycled materials. Not to mention Paris Jackson squeezed between two Beatles.

CHRISTIAN DIOR

“That’s Miss Dior to you” was the message of Maria Grazia Chiru’s PFW collection. Images: Getty Images
“That’s Miss Dior to you” was the message of Maria Grazia Chiru’s PFW collection. Images: Getty Images

With the Miss Dior archival logo emblazoned across miniskirts and trenches, Maria Grazia Chiuri was right on brand. So were her Dior-clad invitées Natalie Portman, Jennifer Lawrence and Rosalía. In 1967, the house unveiled a Miss Dior ready-to-wear boutique under then-designer Marc Bohan’s direction. This lineup paid tribute to that swinging ’60s sensibility.

MIU MIU

Guest star Kristin Scott Thomas (left) and supermodel Gigi Hadid (right) carried out Miu Miu’s playful PFW vision. Images: Getty Images
Guest star Kristin Scott Thomas (left) and supermodel Gigi Hadid (right) carried out Miu Miu’s playful PFW vision. Images: Getty Images

Confirming that outerwear is everything this fall, the first five looks at Miu Miu were reefers, the sweaters were cut like pea coats, Kristin Scott Thomas modeled a charcoal duster and Gigi Hadid wowed in a short fur jacket. Sydney Sweeney, Nina Dobrev and Emma Corrin evaluated the warm threads from the FROW.

SAINT LAURENT

Sheathed in sheer styles, Saint Laurent models wore short hems and tight caps on the catwalk. Images: Getty Images
Sheathed in sheer styles, Saint Laurent models wore short hems and tight caps on the catwalk. Images: Getty Images

Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent exhibited sheer brio. Almost every piece was made of transparent pantyhose material, from diaphanous skirts to filmy blouses, and Olivia Wilde, Lila Moss and Zoë Kravitz flaunted nipple-baring looks in the front row. The house’s sharp leather jackets and oversized blazers provided essential cover to the models.

OFF-WHITE

Ib Kamara didn’t come to play in his first show as creative director of Off-White, populating the runway with daring styles and no shortage of celebs. Images: Getty Images
Ib Kamara didn’t come to play in his first show as creative director of Off-White, populating the runway with daring styles and no shortage of celebs. Images: Getty Images

In his first official outing as creative director, longtime Off-White collaborator Ib Kamara welcomed Willow Smith, Serena Williams and Halle Bailey and escalated his sportswear game. That meant cargo pants and a belted army jacket edged in neon green faux fur and a red halter dress that recalled a team jersey. A win-win.

MUGLER

Hot on the heels of major moments from Julia Fox and Zendaya, Mugler created magic with romantic silhouettes in Paris. Images: Mugler
Hot on the heels of major moments from Julia Fox and Zendaya, Mugler created magic with romantic silhouettes in Paris. Images: Mugler

Mugler is articulating the moment. First Zendaya bared her butt cheeks in the house’s 1995 silver robot suit at the London premiere of “Dune: Part Two,” then Julia Fox sizzled in a see-through catsuit at the Paris event. Creative director Casey Cadwallader harnessed the heat with sheer corsetry and leather mechanoid looks.

DRIES VAN NOTEN

Wild patterns and pops of color characterized the runway at Dries Van Noten. Images: Getty Images
Wild patterns and pops of color characterized the runway at Dries Van Noten. Images: Getty Images

Mix, match and mingle. That’s the M.O. at Dries Van Noten, where the Belgian designer juxtaposes color and texture with embellishment. He bedazzled a natty checked suit, deconstructed sweatshirts and gave a camel coat faded denim sleeves. In his expert hands, it all combines beautifully.

BALMAIN

Balmain babes wore Bordeaux-inspired fashions presenting Olivier Roustein’s latest collection. Images: Getty Images
Balmain babes wore Bordeaux-inspired fashions presenting Olivier Roustein’s latest collection. Images: Getty Images

Love the wine you’re with. Inspired by his hometown of Bordeaux, the vintner’s capital of the world, Olivier Rousteing uncorked varietals like grape-printed gowns and necklaces shaped like clusters of the fruit. More perfect pairings: Bourgeois peplum suits with narrow belts and “Emily in Paris” stars Camille Razat and Ashley Park in the front row.

GIVENCHY

Audrey Hepburn’s favorite fashion house presented styles fit for “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” at Paris Fashion Week. Images: Givenchy
Audrey Hepburn’s favorite fashion house presented styles fit for “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” at Paris Fashion Week. Images: Givenchy

With no designer at the helm after Matthew M. Williams stepped down on Jan. 1, Givenchy’s studio team took on the mantle. Their cocktail dresses and tailored trouser suits captured Audrey Hepburn’s timeless allure with updated twists. Hubert de Givenchy, who founded the legacy house in 1952, would have been proud.

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

Delicate bows and feminine florals dominated the scene at Giambattista Valli this season. Images: Getty Images
Delicate bows and feminine florals dominated the scene at Giambattista Valli this season. Images: Getty Images

The late Lee Radziwill, sister of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and famed decorator and writer, was legendary for her uptown elegance and mystique. Her friend Valli channeled her sophistication in his array of embellished dresses and sleek floral coats in ivory, black and pink. Just add sunglasses.

VICTORIA BECKHAM

Victoria Beckham is the queen of posh — the elegant drapery and subdued styles on her runway this PFW were no exception. Images: Getty Images
Victoria Beckham is the queen of posh — the elegant drapery and subdued styles on her runway this PFW were no exception. Images: Getty Images

Victoria Beckham is the best ambassador for her own brand. Need proof that her “elevator trousers” make legs look longer? When she hobbled out on crutches after the finale (she broke her metatarsal), her pins looked endless. When she slips into her draped dresses, it’s a wrap.

HERMÈS

Hermès showed its mastery over luxury fabrics and exquisite outerwear. Images: Getty Images
Hermès showed its mastery over luxury fabrics and exquisite outerwear. Images: Getty Images

Since 1837, Hermès has handcrafted bespoke saddles, each configured specially for its equestrian. Nadège Vanhee dedicated her effort to horses and motorbikes, both riding sports. Like the saddles, her leather and shearling must-haves are fashioned from the highest quality skins and made to last a lifetime.

LOEWE

Loewe’s unpredictable inspirations yielded flowing fun on the PFW runway. Images: Getty Images
Loewe’s unpredictable inspirations yielded flowing fun on the PFW runway. Images: Getty Images

Associated with art and antiques, provenance traces the origin and journey of an object. The high-society concept inspired Jonathan Anderson. From the Etonian morning suit and the 18th-century English porcelain prints to the carved-wood coat collars textured like Chippendale table legs, Jonathan Anderson treated each garment like it was collectible.


MCQUEEN

Animal prints and risky leather looks absolutely screamed McQueen. Images: Getty Images
Animal prints and risky leather looks absolutely screamed McQueen. Images: Getty Images

Seán McGirr only started at the company on Dec. 1, replacing longtime creative director Sarah Burton, who worked with Lee Alexander McQueen for 14 years before his death. Inspired by McQueen’s 1995 “The Birds” collection, which featured avian and Hitchcock allusions, the new line looked fly.

BALENCIAGA

Unconventional styles and mind-bending spectacles are par for the course at Balenciaga — fancy a bespoke backpack? Images: Getty Images
Unconventional styles and mind-bending spectacles are par for the course at Balenciaga — fancy a bespoke backpack? Images: Getty Images

One of Demna’s sweaters said, “KEEP CALM AND WEAR THIS BALENCIAGA SWEATER.” No chance of that with Kim Kardashian and Serena Williams holding court in the front row. An expert at creating excitement, the designer turned a trench coat into a halter dress and a backpack into a top. He wisely dressed Keeks in a curvy backless gown.

VALENTINO

Valentino’s creative director made a change from the vibrant colors of recent collections to embrace darkness with an all-black outing in Paris. Images: Getty Images
Valentino’s creative director made a change from the vibrant colors of recent collections to embrace darkness with an all-black outing in Paris. Images: Getty Images

Pierpaolo Piccioli unveiled 63 all-black looks, and they couldn’t have been more different. From a transparent LBD and an inky cutout gown to a jet evening trouser suit, he explored silhouettes long and short, aesthetics masculine and feminine, finishes elaborate and plain. It was pitch perfect.

CASABLANCA

Psychedelic inspo and ancient influences opened the audience’s minds to transcendent fashion experiences at Casablanca. Images: Casablanca
Psychedelic inspo and ancient influences opened the audience’s minds to transcendent fashion experiences at Casablanca. Images: Casablanca

It’s all Greek to Casablanca founder Charaf Tajer. After consulting for Supreme and a collection with Off-White, the auto-didact introduced Casablanca in 2018. His “Venus as a Boy” line was inspired by the ancient Greeks’ use of psychedelics, and its blue gradient skirts and shimmering transparent togs were a total trip.

SCHIAPARELLI

Karlie Kloss (left) and other Schiaparelli stunners wore luxurious looks on the Paris runway. Images: Getty Images
Karlie Kloss (left) and other Schiaparelli stunners wore luxurious looks on the Paris runway. Images: Getty Images

After the “infamous” lifesize lion-head gown paraded by Kylie Jenner and the golden lung necklace and couture dress swagged by Bella Hadid, Daniel Roseberry was ready to focus on elevated staples for his prêt-à-porter clients. In his playful world, that means, say, a caped rib-revealing dress on supermodel Karlie Kloss.

RABANNE

Rabenne’s rock-and-roll Paris collection focused on pairing playful patterns and embracing all things oversized. Images: Getty Images
Rabenne’s rock-and-roll Paris collection focused on pairing playful patterns and embracing all things oversized. Images: Getty Images

Dressing in layers is a time-tested way to stay warm. Layering the Rabanne way is the current way to look cool. Julien Dossena’s swirling hodge-podge of clashing prints and piled-on pieces — think two-tone coat over argyle cardi over checked shirt — was influenced by the way real girls dress in Paris. A little vintage-y and a lot carefree.

ISABEL MARANT

Marant’s classic neutrals and pops of color were perfectly Parisian. Images: Getty Images
Marant’s classic neutrals and pops of color were perfectly Parisian. Images: Getty Images

There’s a reason stylish women covet Isabel Marant merch. The designer has the uncanny ability to predict what her low-key customers want, and next season it will surely be her slouchy boots, shearling blouson jackets, floaty hippie dresses and fringed leathers in olive, brown or black. Which will be the new cult product?

MARINE SERRE

“Fake” Moss (left) and Winnie Harlow (right) strutted their stuff for Marine Serre, clad in crescent moons from head to toe. Images: Getty Images
“Fake” Moss (left) and Winnie Harlow (right) strutted their stuff for Marine Serre, clad in crescent moons from head to toe. Images: Getty Images

Was that Kate Moss rocking look No. 9? That was the model mystery at Marine Serre. Sure looked like it, but the waif in a crescent-print jacket and pants was actually Denise Ohnana. Later, the real Winnie Harlow swanned down the catwalk in a ruched slip dress. There was simply no mistaking Serre’s brilliance.